Deanston 12 year
Classification: Single Malt Scotch Whisky
Country: Scotland, United Kingdom
Region: Highlands (Stirling: 56.189278, -4.071417)
Mash Bill: 100% Malted Barley (all Scottish barley)
Strength: 46.3% ABV (92.6° Proof)
Color: Natural Color
Filtration: Non-chill Filtered
Maturation: 12 years in 100% Ex-Bourbon American Oak
Price: $51.99 (ABC Fine Wine & Spirits)
Overview
There was no question in my mind what the opening whisky for this experiment would be.Deanston started life not as a distillery but as a cotton mill situated on the River Teith in 1785. It was not until 1966 that the mill was converted into a distillery to capitalize on a booming Scotch whisky industry. Fun fact - because the distillery installed their own hydroelectric plant on site, they are the only distillery in Scotland that is totally self-sufficient in regard to electricity. The Deanston Distillery is currently owned by South Africa's Distill Group along with two other Scotch distilleries - Bunnahabhain and Tobermory.
To their credit, Distill Group allows each of their three Scottish distilleries to produce and bottle (most of) their single malts in what is unofficially known as a 'craft presentation' - bottled at a higher ABV (43% is standard in the United States, 40% for all other countries), bottled without chill filtration (more on this in future posts), bottled without artificial color (Scotches, even prestigious single malts, are legally permitted to be artificially colored; much more on this in future posts), and bottled with an age statement.
The Deanston 12 year is the distillery's signature product and was selected not for its complexity but for its simplicity. Personally I consider the Deanston 12 a perfect introductory Scotch single malt. There are no buried complexities to unveil here but neither are there any offensive notes to reel from. Most importantly however, the product is offered without typical mass production compromises and at a reasonable purchase price. Unfortunately Scotch shelves contain expensive, heavily filtered and artificially colored, minimum proof single malts that are more marketing than substance. It takes diligence and education, but there are ample selections at all price-points that are worthy of consideration and purchase.
One personal anecdote - my first Deanston experience was with their 14 year expression that is seemingly only distributed to the United States. Like the 12 year, the 14 year is 46.3% ABV, natural color and non-chill filtered but is produced using only organic barley. Normally, I would dismiss the concept of an 'organic' whisky as a pure marketing gimmick, but the 14 year happened to be a Total Wine Whiskey of the Month for which Total Wine gives a 10% off coupon to their Total Discovery members. I took the leap of faith and must say, was more than pleased; it was unlike any single malt I have tasted, then and now.
When I purchased the 12 year and pulled the bottle from the cardboard box, I was astonished at the color difference. So great was the difference in the 12 year compared to the 14 year that I was convinced the 12 year had to be artificially colored - just look for yourself:
 |
| Deanston 12 (left) and Deanston 14 (right) |
If interested, Deanston's spiel on their process is a fun watch or read, dealer's choice:
Watch: https://vimeo.com/211308647
Read: https://www.deanstonmalt.com/our-craft/
Tasting Notes
Deanston's official tasting notes for their 12-year:
Group Impressions
First, a plea to all contributing to this experiment - my goal is to capture opinions and impressions as free from bias as possible. As such, the very first review will be the most pure in this regard. If someone missed aspects of this first whiskey, my fear is a seed of doubt will be planted that will linger in subsequent reviews. I urge everyone to fight this natural tendency and continue to offer your unfiltered and unadulterated opinions.Second, a disclaimer - despite knowing exactly what each month's item is, I will post my impressions alongside everyone else's. While the rest of the group will remain anonymous, its only fair that I disclose that my impressions shall be posted under the guise of my far and away favorite character on Magnum P.I. - Jonathan Quayle Higgins III. Sadly, John Hillerman, the actor who portrayed Higgins passed away at the age of 84 on November 9, 2017. I will be forever grateful that John Hillerman did what he did in life: https://twitter.com/ManyMoons_Ago/status/929028251695173632
With that moment of silence complete - lets get to the reviews! It was personally satisfying to read everyone's impressions and definite trends emerged - vanilla, caramel, honey, fruit, and alcohol tingle/pleasing finish. Many noted a peaty aspect which I found to be of great interest. Peat is not something I have personally noticed, nor is it anywhere in Deanston's official notes, but I have read other reviews of Deanston 12 that have noted a light peat so well spotted!
Most agreed this smelled of a Scotch, but a few felt it tasted of a bourbon - this is fantastic and lends even more credence to our educated guess that Deanston is in fact using very fresh ex-bourbon casks for the maturation of this whisky. The group seems split on whether water and/or ice helped or hindered this whisky, but everyone was spot-on in their prediction of the whisky's proof.
Thanks to everyone for contributing, enjoy the read, and cheers to Month 2:
Colonel Buck Greene
Appearance - Dark like a bourbon. Legs were long, distributed and steady.
Smell - The whiskey smelled like scotch. Slightly peaty or smokey? Reminded me of a Johnny Walker Black. Perhaps a bit of vanilla to the smell.
Taste - Slight tingle from the alcohol. Tasted perhaps 90-100 proof. Again, slight vanilla or possible a cinnamon (very slight) flavor.
Finish - This was the most noticeable aspect! The finish lingered a long time. The flavor reminded in a kind of "slight suntan oil sheen on pool water". Cinnamon flavor emerged a bit more.
General Thoughts - I took this Whiskey neat, like my haircuts. I am ambivalent towards the whiskey as I am not really a scotch individual and it reminded me of scotch. I have limited tasting experience but it reminded me of a Johnny Walker Black label. Overall, this was a great fun experience to sample an unknown whiskey!
Zeus
I usually drink my whiskey’s on the rocks, but for the sake of the sampling I wanted the full effect of it I went sans rocks.
Appearance: Light amber color. This could probably describe most whiskeys. It did not appear to watery based on my completely amateur swirling analysis.
Smell: Very potent and harsh smell, reminded me of cold remedies (disclaimer, coming off of a cold so I am biased). Reminded me of some Irish whiskey’s I had in the past, definitely not a bourbon. The more I smelled it the less harsh it seemed. Towards the end it seemed like what I would expect a Scotch to smell like.
Taste: Damn that had some bite for a split second on initial touchdown. It was a powerful burn that I didn’t really like. I was expecting the worst from it afterwards, but it immediately mellowed out. Sitting on my tongue it had a nice complex flavor I appreciated.
Finish: After swallowing, the aftertaste was really nice. Carmel or vanilla is what I was thinking I tasted at this point. The taste lingers longer then most whiskeys I usually consume, which I appreciated.
General thoughts: I still suspect a Irish Whiskey after several tastes. Maybe a peaty Scotch, kind of like Laphroaig, but Laphroaig always seemed much more harsh and smoky then this sample. While the initial burn seem high to me, I’d be surprised if this was a high proof whiskey. I liked the taste of this, but it wouldn’t be something I’d purchase for myself. However, my limited experience with Irish Whiskeys, that this reminds me of, is that I need to experiment with more of them to appreciate them better.
Carol Baldwin
Appearance: Color dark gold, pale amber.
Smell: The whiskey smelled very lightly peaty, inviting.
Taste: First sip neat there was a surprisingly powerful sharp punch from the alcohol. The flavors mellowed into a pleasant slightly peaty taste on the tongue. With subsequent sips the initial punch did not subside, but the finish was quite enjoyable.
Finish: With further sips it mellowed further into wood with a slight smoke finish. This whiskey reminded me of some scotches that I have had in the past. I enjoyed the mellowing flavors in the aftertaste, the initial sharpness with its strong burn not so much.
General Thoughts: After adding a couple ice cubes I found the burn was reduced, however this also blunted the roundness of the after flavors. I did not enjoy it as much with the ice, as the flavor became mostly alcohol with little of the other flavors that I enjoyed while drinking it neat. When the ice melted and it became closer to room temperature, the flavors came out more and I enjoyed it more then previous sips. Although I did ultimately enjoy this whiskey, I probably would not buy it after tasting it. Due to the sharp alcohol punch, I think it’s a higher proof whiskey
Admiral Hawkes
I received my first blind tasting sample and immediately noticed a nice amber color in the clear bottle. A quick sniff confirmed my guess that we were opening with a Scotch Whisky.
Per instructions, the first tasting was neat. There were no noticeable legs in the tumbler, the contents seemed to slide down side in a sheet. Blessed from birth with oversized nasal capacity, the aromas of all spirits are important to me. The nose on this one made me think seaside and caramel, obviously a scotch whisky, and my spidey sense says a blend.
There was a stringent alcohol punch on the nose that set me up for some heat before the actual taste. The taste was bit of smoke and barrel wood tones, I did not get the caramel notes my nose promised me. The heat I expected was definitely there.
Made a second pour and added two drops of water this time. That seemed to reinforce the scents and cooled the heat just enough to know there were some higher notes in there somewhere... along with some peaty overtones. But I was still having trouble capturing what the aroma had me expecting. Tomorrow, on the rocks (well, actually, rock).
Day two I went for the big cube, and again, until there was a slow melt, the heat of the alcohol just wiped out any flavor notes. Once colder and slightly diluted, it became more pleasant and I tasted citrus notes with perhaps a hint of vanilla. I knew it was in there somewhere!
Conclusion: This scotch was not so neat neat, would seem to be a more pleasant pre-dinner quaff on the rocks or with a splash of water or perhaps soda.
Apollo
Smell:
Strong smell of alcohol, maybe a slight smell of caramel
Appearance:
Amber color, fairly thick legs
Taste:
Strong alcohol burn at first but it became less noticeable after a few sips. I thought I noticed a peaty taste on one sip, other than that I couldn’t really identify any particular flavors.
Finish:
Long-lasting tongue tingle
Summary:
I think it may be a higher proof than what I’m used to. Possibly 90 or 100 proof.
Overall, it didn't particularly appeal to me. It didn’t have any really distinguishable flavors that I could detect and was not as smooth as I'd like. Because of that it wasn’t all that interesting to me. It was okay, but I wouldn't drink it on a regular basis, especially if it's expensive. I prefer my standard Glenfiddich.
Waldo Norris
When the bottle arrived, I opened the small cap and immediately gave it a sniff... thought I had my nose on a scotch. I was all but certain I was smelling earth, grass, easy pickings for a scotch, which I am used to with several I frequently drink. After pouring it into my glass, and giving it enough time to study for color and legs, my nose started to pick up on sweeter smells, honey immediately came to mind, mixed with plums. The color was a nice medium gold, with good legs, but not huge. I wasn't as sure about my initial thoughts that I had a scotch in my hands.
My first taste - The first impression on the tongue, was smooth, but was quickly replaced with a bite of the alcohol. The taste reminded me of sticking my tongue on a battery. This by no means was a harsh battery, perhaps better described as a battery that has been used to control the TV, for several months, and only had just enough punch left to give me that one last zip, as I stupidly test it the only way I know how. After the tingling subsided, the whiskey flavor stuck around for a good few minutes, but I didn't pick up on any new flavors emerging.
I really started to enjoy this after my second and third sips, where I added just a drop or two of water. The flavor started to balance out for me, and it opened up even more of the sweetness. The tingle was still there however.
I think this is a good sipping whiskey, not overly strong on alcohol (45% or so), well balanced, with a complex sweetness, balanced with a strong acidity. This felt like it was relatively low alcohol, as there was no burn as it went down. I could see this very easily being used with a mixed drink, but i don't think I would enjoy it with an overly sweet mixer. Perhaps a nice old fashioned.
My nose did deceive me, and my thoughts changed, I am certain I have a bourbon on my hands. This tastes like a good bourbon, very drinkable, and easy for a person that doesn't like that very strong alcohol taste, or the burning as you swallow. I would certainly have a bottle on hand, as this would be a good, easy to drink treat.
Michael Doheny
Alright, let’s do this thing. As instructed, I broke the sample into different pours; a 1oz neat, a 1oz with a teaspoon of filtered water, and 2oz over ice, my prefered method of enjoying a cocktail.
Here goes - baby here goes.
The color was a shade not dissimilar to amber reminiscent of Jurassic Park. Her legs were measured and consistent as I swirled the sample about the Glencarin glass.
I first encountered what I thought was an apple aromatic, but it diffused quickly and I took my first sip. I dredged air across the liquid as it triggered a mild warmth across my mouth. Nothing sharp or ill mannered, it had a tailored taste the left the impression of something well crafted.
The second taste had a more delayed, almost bubbling, warmth and a splash of something familiar. As I chased to identify the flavors, the whisky slid around my mouth and the beguiling essence dissipated,leaving me without a defined taste.
On the final sip of ounce number one, the heat was all but gone and it felt like a delightful glow down the gullet. The hints of pomaceous fruit were there, but they dissolved as fast as my synapse could fire.
Overall soothing and tender to the taste, inspiring a sense of peace and warmth.
24 hours later, the second tasting with a teaspoon of water, was an altogether different experience.
It was as if I’d poisoned the world.
The color was polluted and riddled with veins of varying hues. The engaging apple aroma was eradicated, it smelt more like a sodden woodshop or stale varnish.
On the first tasting, I all but missed any flavors at all. The heat huddled at the back of my throat like a puppy fleeing from a vacuum. The balance which seemed defining on the first taste was now absent.
Subsequent sips in no way helped the case for the spoonful of water. The heat of the drink diffused on my lips, pursing them, giving a face to this sampling. It was a broken toy that I preferred to throw away, but i finished the last.
The taste had been corrupted, and was no match to it’s virgin sister.
24 hours later, the third tasting of 2oz over ice, I wasn’t sure if this taste would lift me to the moon, or the corner saloon, I would soon find out.
Color is a tricky thing with ice. As it sweats away, the colors melt and swirl. Rich gold, then stung by streams of straw, and with a swill the colors clash and dissolve into a third hue.
The smell was muddied by the radiant cold from the ice. There was a hint of an aroma, but distant, almost hidden in the crispness of frost from the cube. Any attempt at accessing the legs was prematurely smashed as the ice smeared the diminishing gold hue back into the well of the glass.
On contact with my lips it tasted like an exotic candy. Something your father would bring after a long trip to far Bombay. The flavor wasn’t as bruised as it had been with the water. It could be the combination of the temperature and water had altered the composition to the point that it had evolved past the previous distasteful state.
There was a radiant heat in my mouth, like the warmth you feel when watching a exuberant fireworks spectacular without the smokey residue. The candy taste shifted a bit as the ice continued it’s assault on the body of the drink. Less exotic, more like the shell of a candied apple, then even that was dulled until it was not quite sugar, but sweet still the same.
I found the combination of ice with a 2 oz pour pleasant and very drinkable.
Keoki
One of the great joys in life is having a glass of whiskey. There's something about the taste, smell, and history that makes you slow down and really enjoy the product of time. What's even better is free whiskey!
Upon first pour (neat), the sample reminds me of Glenmorangie---at least in color. Has good legs and overall body.
One thing that stood out to me was the smell. It seemed to me to be high in alcohol content, at least in smell (more on the taste later). While it looked like Glenmorangie, it didn't have the similar fruity explosion that I normally get from it. The smell reminded me of brown sugar.
So, my brain and palate are now expecting something strong and sweet. I was half right. I was pleasantly surprised with the smoothness whiskey--it wasn't overpowering at all. I'll also say this---whatever this is, it is in my wheelhouse. I loved the taste of this whiskey. I'm more drawn to the peat-less varieties---generally highland and speyside. When I think of this whiskey, I think of a good cigar and fire. I don't need the coals in my scotch.
It also finished well. I didn't have a lingering taste in my mouth after drininking. Some scotches that do this are great because the ensure your patience with sipping. This scotch, however, is very easy to drink. While I thought it was going to be higher in proof, I think it is actually lower this. 50%.
My guess is this is either glenmorangie or glenlivet.
I would definitely buy this whiskey. I'm actually hoping it's something cheap because I enjoyed it so much.
Jonathan Quayle Higgins
Color: Suspiciously orange/dark for a single malt.
Nose: Malty sugar and subtle brown sugar, even a bit of honey.
Taste: Alcohol tingle that persists on the tongue for some time but not in an unpleasant way. This is not a burn, rather a gentle tingle. There is a definite, though muted, bourbon vibe, not upon first taste nor on the finish, more in the middle. There is a sweetness to the taste, particularly as the alcohol punch dissipates.
Finish: Immediately after tasting, a rush of sweetness on the tongue, then a tongue tingle. The alcohol tingle lasts and lasts for me. Actual flavors of barley and honey that are left on the finish are only there for a short to medium amount of time. The tingle however persists for some time.
Addition of water tamed the alcohol on the nose. I get more of a grassy note with the addition of water. The sweetness seems toned down now and replaced with a bit of wintergreen/mint. The whiskey does not seem as rich or colorful with the addition of water, more grayscale. The color also changed from amber to golden.
I think the whiskey is more sippable neat, but more approachable with water. Neat, yes, there is an initial punch of alcohol, but flavor immediately follows. Left neat I think you have a more bourbon influenced single malt. With water, I think you have a more traditional lower-proof blended Scotch taste.
I would love to try this side-by-side with similarly aged Highlanders - Glemorangie 10 and Glenfiddich 12 (okay, Glenfiddich is a Speysider, but you get the idea).
Robin Masters (smell only)
Pale orange in color
Initial impressions:
Cinnamon, warm, orange blossom, honey, light woodsy
10 minutes later:
Varnish, red cinnamon candy, oregano, butter
20 minutes later:
bran muffin, wood shop, orange oil
No comments:
Post a Comment