Tuesday, July 31, 2018

Month 7 - Pikesville Straight Rye Whiskey


Pikesville Straight Rye Whiskey
Classification: Straight Rye Whiskey
Country: United States of America
Region: Kentucky, Heaven Hill Distilleries: Louisville (Distillery): 38.2448, -85.7815, Bardstown (Maturation): 37.7948, -85.4661
Mash Bill: 51% Rye, 35% Corn, 14% Malted Barley
Strength: 55.0% ABV (110.0° Proof)
Color: Natural Color
Filtration: Unknown (Most likely Chill-Filtered)
Maturation: 6 years in 100% New Charred Oak
Price: $56.99 (Total Wine)

Overview

Why it had to be Rye in July! In addition to the linguistic flair of the phrase, what better whiskey to send during the month of America's Independence than what is widely considered to be the very first whiskey variant produced in the good ole US of A.

While bourbon, by law, contains at least 51% corn, rye whiskey must contain at least 51% rye. The rye percentage in rye whiskey varies a great deal across labels, some ryes even boast 95% rye content. For the best illustration of what rye brings to the whiskey experience, think about bread. Specifically, think about the experience of smelling and tasting cornbread and now think about smelling and tasting a slice of rye bread. Rye brings a pungent spicy punch that can be polarizing to some when featured on its own. In moderation however, rye, like a well placed splash of hot sauce, can complement a corn whiskey wonderfully. It's no surprise that the vast majority of bourbon contains a percentage of rye, typically between 10 and 25 percent, but I digress, this month is not about bourbon, it's all about the rye.

From its earliest days, rye, both as a crop and as a whiskey, was a huge component of Maryland's history. Pikesville began life in the 1890's and quickly became known as *the* Maryland whiskey. Pikesville's label changed owners as well as producing distilleries a few times through the years, but one thing remained constant - it was always produced in Maryland. It was a cult-favorite for its bold taste, higher proof, and best of all, its bottom-shelf pricing. Sadly however, Maryland's rye industry began to falter in the 1960s. By the 1970s, Maryland's rye industry was practically extinct and in turn took its rye whiskey industry with it. The last barrel of Maryland-produced Pikesville Rye was filled in 1972 with the final bottlings occurring in the early 1980s.

In 1982, Kentucky's Heaven Hill Distilleries purchased the Pikesville label and resumed production of the fabled whiskey in their Bardstown, Kentucky distillery. The much-loved Maryland whiskey lived on in name, but was no longer produced in Maryland.

While bourbon's terrific resurgence began in the 1990s, rye whiskey was much slower to regain popular demand. It was said back then that major distilleries dedicated only one mash and still house production run of rye whiskey a year. That all began to change in the 2000s however as prohibition-era and 'Mad Men' era cocktails began to spread through bar culture with wild hipster-fueled abandon. Rye quite literally went from zero to hero in the span of a few months. Virtually all major distilleries radically expanded their rye production and portfolios, but Heaven Hill never lost faith in rye whiskey and was prepared to meet the new demand.

In addition to Pikesville, Heaven Hill also produces Rittenhouse Rye. What Pikesville represents to Maryland, Rittenhouse represents to Pennsylvania - a regionally iconic whiskey with nearly a century of brand-recognition pedigree that died when Pennsylvania's whiskey industry died in the 1970s. Also like Pikesville, Heaven Hill scooped up the Rittenhouse label in the 1980s.

Today, Heaven Hill separates their two rye whiskey offerings in both price and overall presentation. The mashbill, production specifications, and maturation barrels for both Pikesville and Rittenhouse are identical, but Rittenhouse is offered as a Bottled in Bond, 4-year, 100-proof whiskey while Pikesville is offered at a more upscale 6-year, 110-proof whiskey. The price difference is typically around $20 to $30 with Rittenhouse retailing in the $30 neighborhood and Pikesville in the gated community of $50(ish). Tasting each side by side, you can easily tell these two whiskeys are closely related brothers, but the extra two years and 5% more ABV do deliver a more interesting and powerful experience. Is Pikesville worth the price premium over its younger brother? That is an exercise left to the reader, but I will offer one opinion - a price premium is easily justified if your primary use-case is sipping neat or with a splash of water or ice. If a cocktail is the most probable final resting place for a rye whiskey in your cabinet, then no need to spend the extra cash.

Tasting Notes




Group Impressions

With Pikesville containing the legal-minimum amount of rye, it will be the most 'bourbony' of rye whiskeys. Reading through the impressions, most assumed Month 7 was indeed a bourbon but if you read closely, everyone noted classic rye hallmarks - spice, heat, punch - so well done to all, your noses and tongues did not betray you. Also Pikesville is the highest proof sample sent to date but no one was fooled with multiple comments regarding the proof punch and the slow, long legs in the glass; a tip of my hat to each of you!

A few contributors noted that Pikesville worked well in cocktails and indeed, that is for me the primary use of rye - poured into sazeracs, old fashioneds, and manhattans. Thanks to all for another fun month, we shall raise our glasses and toast Month 8!

Apollo
This one was notable right off the bat because of its dark color and very long-lasting legs. After swirling it around in the glass, it seemed to basically just stick to the sides. Eventually, it dripped down but it took longer than any whiskey I've ever sampled.

Nothing in the aroma really jumped out at me. It smelled like whiskey, but it didn't singe my nose hairs or anything.

Upon sampling it, however, I noticed a very strong alcohol burn. So much so that I wondered if it might be a cask strength whiskey, which is something I've never sampled before. As far as the flavor, I had trouble picking out individual tastes, as usual. At one point I thought I detected a bit of butterscotch and possibly spice, but it wasn't clear enough to be certain.

Overall, I thought this was a fairly enjoyable whiskey. The added alcohol burn made it a little more challenging than most, but that's not a bad thing. I would definitely try this one again.

Jonathan Quayle Higgins
Appearance
Medium copper in the glass. Nice long, slow legs with tiny tears. You gotta love ‘Murican boldness in bottling their whiskey at high proofs.

Nose
Sweetness right off the bat. Rye and corn quickly follow the sweetness. Subsequent sniffs and cherry, cherry-vanilla, and Twizzlers come charging out. Amazing, as once you smell the cherry and twizzlers, its all I could smell. Great sweetness on the nose. Rye spice is present too. Dare I say a bit of wintergreen/spearmint. A bit of mustiness, very faint on the tail of the nose. The alcohol punch is well contained here, just a small amount of burn on the nose.

Taste
Let a out a Ric Flair WOOOOOO, there is epic spice here. Near zero sweetness up front, pure spice. At first this seems like a dry whiskey but sweetness comes after a few seconds and lasts from mid-taste all the way to the finish. What a wonderful sensation it is. The spice and rye dominate the first two-thirds of the taste but the cherry returns during the final one-third of the taste.

Neat this is drinkable to me. Yes there is an alcohol punch but not what I would consider harsh, certainly stout, but not harsh. A splash of water helps tame the alcohol.

Finish
Medium length finish. There is a rye bitterness on the finish for me. Some sweetness is present, but overall, I would say this finish is more dry than sweet. My grandmother loved rye bread. As a child, I hated rye bread, yet when staying with my grandmother while my parents were out on the town, I had to eat rye bread. The finish of this whiskey flashes me back to the aftertaste of that bread. Come to think about it, my grandmother also loved rye whiskey - she used to pour what had to be three fingers but in a mason jar, not a normal glass. She would toss in a cube of ice and that jar would get her through the night. I wonder what she would think of Pikesville - I bet she would like it but would be absolutely mortified at spending sixty bones on a bottle of hooch.

Overall
Hard to believe there is only 51% rye here, it certainly tastes as spicy as some 95% rye whiskeys I have had. Hard to believe it is 110 proof, it drinks far too easy considering the proof but water definitely helps the experience for me. Water tames the alcohol punch and opens up a bit more of the sweet notes on both the nose and tongue. This whiskey smells fantastic and tastes very good. If assigning letter grades, the nose gets an ‘A’ while the taste gets a solid ‘B’. I doubt I would always ensure a bottle of Pikesville was on my shelf, but I also don’t see myself reaching for this more than a few times a year.

Waldo Norris
Well, I can honestly say you have me stumped on this one.

Nose: The smells from this sample show a ton of vanilla and honey, with some dark fruit. Also picking up on creme brulee smells.

Color: Medium gold

Palate: After two full glasses, on two separate occasions, I am getting some immediate flavors. Very subtle, but it is so instantly shot by the incredible amount of spice. Perhaps a very light oak to start and some dried fruits... but it certainly doesn't linger long. After the initial spice, there is a good amount of heat the follows.

Finish: Strong, and incredibly long. I think i'm still tasting this one about 10 minutes after I finished the glass. The spice over time of course goes away, and the mouth is left with a dry, light oak taste.

Overall: There just wasn't a ton of character on this one. It had heat, it had spice, the nose was quite sweet and pleasant. After that, I just felt like the only thing that stood out in the end with it was the spice. I think I could have paired this well with some vermouth and some bitters and made a very nice mixed drink, but on its own, not for me.

Zeus
Appearance: Dark amber. Very long legs. Persistent legs at that, more so then most samples.

Smell: Very pleasant bourbon like rich woody smell. Smells like a winner so far. Woody smell reminds me of smoked fruit woods from BBQing, but then again I was BBQing meats this weekend with fruit woods so I'm not coming into this clean.

Taste: Son of a nutcracker! This must be very high proof, I was totally unprepared for a harsh burning sensation on initial taste. I was expecting a smooth whiskey based on the smell but it utterly flanked me and smacked me on the back of my head. I didn’t taste much at the first sip. Further sips were far more pleasant and enjoyable. Woody taste that I smelled came through later on, but it was very subtle.

Finish: Very good burn going down. Woody taste lingers for 10ish seconds but as I got more used to it the burn sensation faded and I was left with the nice woody aftertaste.

General Thoughts: This is not an amateur whiskey. Totally took me by surprise at my first sip, but I started to enjoy it on the further tastings. The taste was not extremely complex, which was a total surprise based on my expectations from the smell. I think it’s a bourbon, reminds me of a higher proof Old Forester bourbon that I got.

Keoki
For our July offering we had a bourbon that was not for the faint of heart.

The bourbon looked to be the darkest sample we've had so far. Dark amber is the closest I can say.
I got a lot of sweet notes -- a little maple syrup, a lot of vanilla. One thing that hit me was the alcohol. It really smelled potent!

The sample had good legs on the glass.

I took it neat, as always. My nose didn't deceive me this time. It tasted really strong to me. If I were offered this, it would definitely need to be a sipping bourbon. It's funny how the palate works. I can taste the same alcohol percentage in Scotch and not bat an eye, but if it's a different type of alcohol, it's hard to handle.

I didn't get the harsh taste that some cheap bourbons give you -- you know, the stuff you used to mix with soda in college. It just tasted strong.

Not sure if I'd buy this offering. It may work well for mixed drinks, but if I wanted to drink bourbon straight I'd go with a smoother choice.

Admiral Hawkes
OK, this one kind of threw me off a bit. When I opened the box and saw the dark brown color, my mind went to another double-faced or sherry barreled whiskey.  I opened the cap, and my spider sense said we were due for a rye whiskey. But the nose seemed to say bourbon to me. I take pride in my olfactory sense, but this one made me doubt I had it right. Were those corn notes I detected? It sure didn’t feel like rye. Hmmmm.

I moved straight to the neat pour. This one felt quite hot to me, and I did not really like the mouth feel of it. I routinely gulp 100 proof Knob Creek, and don’t feel the heat from that like this baby delivered. The heat made it tougher for me to detect taste notes. I really wanted to figure out what drove the dark color, but could not. I plopped an ice cube in and felt some aromas release, but just could not put a word on it. Strange.

My next taste was a healthy pour as part of a Manhattan. The vermouth and bitters definitely took the heat off, and I would say I enjoyed it much more in a cocktail. I started to wonder if this was perhaps a wheated whiskey, something I have not tasted before… perhaps that was what threw me. But I would not bet on it.

This was my least favorite dram of the bunch so far. Definitely worthy as the base for a whiskey cocktail at the right price, but not something I would enjoy straight.

Michael Doheny
These foolish things remind me of you.

House rules are as follows, first sample, straight. Second sample, splash of water to keep you honest, and lastly on the rocks, as God intended.

Sing Hallelujah, come on, get happy I was jazzed to receive this month’s sample. As soon I liberated the libation for its cardboard sarcophagus the color struck me as familiar as red on the roulette wheel. That was the perfect shade of God’s own nectar, Bourbon. I broke out a bottle of Elijah Craig for a side by side, and like two showgirls, you could barely tell them apart. Bea-u-ti-ful.

Cracked the seal and it sure smells like good american Bourbon. This is why we fight those dirty commies, for the god given right to let great institutions like this to exist. Freedom condensed into a Glencarin glass.

Throwing caution through the wind, I took a hearty bolt of the corn mashed masterpiece. The rich warmth scoured the inferior liquids from my mouth and settled into a warm bath full of subtle vanilla lotions and that echo of chard oak. I closed my eyes, swallowed deeply and let the vapors escape from my mouth. I tried the second sip with a little more tenderness. (Hey, I think I’ve heard that someplace before.) It was wonderfully balanced, letting the mature sweetness melt into my taste buds as the heat ebbed.  The flavor lingered, like a couple who don’t want the dance to end. It held that strong caramel color all the way to the last drops. Should I confess I love you?

The water from sample two took a little starch out of the smell of the drink and eroded a bit of the lovely color. The flavors were relaxed and opened, but this time the sweet was scorched from my tongue from the heat. Totally the opposite of drinking it straight. The hits of oak or wood aren’t there and the drink seemed more mellow, like drowsy morning sunlight. This was too easy to sip and before too long it was gone; now I'm alone with only a memory of that happiness.

Last came the ice, and just seein’ those cube there, I wink to nobody but the open mouth of the glass and whisper, “who loves ya, baby?” I pour the last precious ounces, and now drops, over the ice and watch the reaction. The water is soiling the once vibrant color, pulling the richness from it, until it is just off color gold. I put my lips to the glass and could feel those icy fingers up and down my spine. Brother, this did not mix well, it was like bottom shelf something that they’d serve to the rubes at Jilly’s in the wee hours of the day. I gave it the ol’ Dean Martin swirl with my finger and sipped again. The balance was back, much like the water round there was a subtleness to everything, the heat curtailed, the vanilla just a whisper. God help me for saying this, but it was better straight.

I think this is bourbon, ain’t no doubt in this foolish heart of mine. It will be as delicious tomorrow as a hundred years from today. Sweet surrender, You came, you saw, you conquered me and, I can't break away I must have you everyday.

Carol Baldwin
Appearance: Deep amber color, slow to develop legs

Smell:
At the top, caramel, butterscotch and vanilla. Wood, and then sharp alcohol deeper in the glass. Smells like a bourbon.

Taste:
Vanilla, caramel, and a sharp alcohol burn that lingers

Finish:
Bitter and astringent, with the warming sensation from the alcohol.

General Thoughts:
I enjoyed this bourbon. Nothing too surprising, it has the expected bourbon flavors; however the astringent alcohol finish does lead me to believe that this month's pick has a higher alcohol content than some of the others we have sampled.

Saturday, July 14, 2018

Glasses, Glasses, Glasses

(Left to Right) Tribeca Whiskey, Norlan Glass, Belgian Taster, Sipping Snifter, Port Glass, Glencairn

Do I ever love glassware. My much better half often pokes good-natured fun at my ballooning collection and frequent clearing out of yesterday's old and crusty glassware in the cabinet to make room for today's new hotness. The majority of the whiskey I enjoy, I enjoy neat whose only modification is perhaps a splash of water. As such, of paramount importance to me is how well the glass conveys the whiskey's smell. How the glass feels in hand as well as how the glass sips, while also quite important, take a backseat to the glass's nosing aptitude.

Shown above are the current favorites in the cabinet. From left to right, they are ordered least-favorite to most-favorite. Let's dive into what works and doesn't work for each of them and remember, these glasses are suited for neat or with a splash of water, I don't believe ice would work in any save the Tribeca.

#6 - Tribeca Whiskey Glass
Cost: $18.95 for four ($4.74 each)
While this glass looks terrific, an old-school European grandmother's house vibe, I have never had a great nosing experience with this glass. Perhaps it is the flared out lip rather than a tapered-in or straight lip. In the hand it feels hefty and robust, the bottom of the bowl feels great in the palm. The spirit's appearance really shines in this glass and it is a favorite among guests at our table so not all is lost. It is a favorite glass when sitting down to enjoy a whiskey that I have no intent to analyze; never underestimate the beauty of those turn-your-brain-off moments in life.

#5 - Norlan Glass
Cost: $48.00 for two ($24.00 each)
The most expensive glass on the shelf! The Norlan Glass started as a Kickstarter campaign back in 2015. I don't recall the campaign's initial financial goal, I believe it was $75,000, but the glass generated tremendous interest on the Web. Ultimately over 10,000 backers contributed over $800,000 and a legend was born. Not only was I not part of the Kickstarter campaign, I openly mocked and rejected the glass as a pure gouge-tastic gimmick. Years went by, the whiskey blogs I follow posted review after review and yet I maintained the resistance. Then one night some barrel proof bourbon temporarily altered my mind, transforming my fist in the air into a fist handing a credit card to Amazon.

The glass is a visual wonder - an inner-glass that is vacuum sealed within an outer glass shell. When you first pick up a Norlan Glass, it feels as though it is made of plastic, warm to the touch and extremely light, but it is 100% glass. And here is my first nit with this glass - it is too light for my preferences; I wish it had a bit more heft in hand. The glass noses well, but it does dissipate the ethanol quickly, perhaps a bit too quickly for lower proof whiskies. I have also noticed that when you near the completion of your dram, the strength of the nose drops sharply, perhaps due to the overly proactive ethanol dissipation of the glass. When sipping, the lip is fatter and tapered outward more than I would like, it makes for an odd sensation on the lips and tongue. All that being said, it is a beautiful glass that noses and sips well, but not mind-blowingly well. And there is the rub, I personally feel that if the wallet is blown then so too should the mind, even if to a lesser degree. <meekishly raises fist back in the air>

#4 - Belgian Taster
Cost: $1.95 each
From the most expensive to the least expensive. These caught my eye while perusing the ample glassware selection at the local Crate & Barrel store. It would be fair to think my Belgian ancestry is what drew me to these, but alas that is merely a happy coincidence. While amassing justification for my Norlan Glass resistance, one reddit commentator dismissed the Norlan insisting all you need is a 'Belgian tasting glass'. That comment stuck in my brain and jolted free upon seeing the shelf-label for these glasses in the store.

The glass has a great heft, but the stem is just a bit too short for me. Another nit is the thickness of the glass, including at the lip; it is just a wee bit too bulky overall. On the upside though, the glass noses quite well, aromas remain bright and vibrant throughout the dram. The best aspect of this glass however is the taper from the bowl to the lip which provides a natural and comfortable cue to your lower lip that it is properly placed for the impending sip. Perhaps the glass is appropriately named as its tasting prowess slightly edges out its nosing prowess.

#3 - Sipping Snifter
Cost: $6.95 each
Also from Crate & Barrel comes the most recent acquisition to the shelf and what a refined, elegant addition it is. This glass is the Niles Crane to the Belgian Taster's Martin Crane. It is as though the same mass of glass was used to produce this glass as the shorter Belgian Taster. Everything is thinner, more delicate, and more graceful. The stem height is perfect for a three finger index-middle-thumb grasp. The weight of the glass is spot-on. It noses fantastically well from the first sip to the last, and it is one of the few glasses on this list whose opening is wide enough to allow your nose to continue to smell the whiskey as you sip. As for sipping, well for me, sipping from such a seductively thin lip of glass oozes sophistication and class. This is the glass I will reach for when I need to be reminded that humanity is still capable of producing beauty.

#2 - Port Glass
Cost: $21.00 for four ($5.25 each)
The workhorse of the cabinet which is why it is sitting one notch above the beloved Sipping Snifter. I know, if the Sipping Snifter is so awesome, why not use it every night? Well for the same reason you don't have a black tie evening every night - it makes it that much more special when you do indulge. The port glass found its way into my life a few years ago when Disney gifted annual passholders port glasses if they made three visits to EPCOT's Food & Wine festival. On a whim, after sitting unused on our shelf for months, I poured a dram of single malt and was genuinely impressed with how the glass complimented the whiskey experience. The stem is tall enough to allow as much pinch-twisting and swirling that your heart desires. The tapering from the bowl to the lip consistently delivers a strong nose, regardless of how much spirit is in the glass. Sipping is straightforward and effortless as the tall stem affords ample and effortless tilting leverage. This is the perfect Tuesday-night whiskey glass.

#1 - Glencairn
Cost: $25.00 for four ($6.25 each)
All hail the king. There is a reason the Glencairn is easily the most recognizable whiskey glass on the planet - it delivers every aspect of the whiskey experience fantastically well to all senses. My first serious bottle of whiskey was Highland Park 15 year. A day after purchasing the malt, I ordered a set of Glencairns from Amazon. Despite being the oldest style glass on my shelf, it has proven its dominance and staying power week in and week out. The indentation between the base and bowl provides a natural, comfortable, and intuitive point that can either be cupped or grasped. The nose is delivered with near-perfect consistency as is the volume of each sip. No matter what shiny new glassware trend finds its way onto my shelf, the Glencairn remains steadfast and sure and I suspect that will remain true for the remainder of my whiskey life.

Thursday, July 5, 2018

Don't worry, the fans don't start booing until July

Charlie, here comes the deuce. And when you speak of me, speak well.

Month 6 - Taketsuru Pure Malt Black Label


Classification: Japanese Vatted Malt Whisky
Country: Japan
Region: Hokkaido (Yoichi: 43.187°N 140.792°W) and Tohoku (Miyagikyo: 38.308°N 140.651°W)
Mash Bill: 100% Malted Barley
Strength: 43.0% ABV (86.0° Proof)
Color: Unknown (most blends are artificially colored)
Filtration: Unknown (Most likely chill filtered)
Maturation: No Age Statement in unknown casks
Price: $39.99 (Publix Supermarkets)

Overview

What a difference a year can make. From the outset of this little experiment, my three promises to the group have been to send 1) readily available, 2) costing less than $75 per 750mL bottle, and 3) totally unadulterated whiskies each month. Unfortunately, as I write this, month six's whisky is in violation of rules one and two as it is sparsely available in only the largest of liquor stores and currently retails for $80. Allow me to throw myself on the mercy of the group.

When I actually purchased this whisky in early 2017 however, it was not only readily available but was purchased on clearance from a supermarket as it was not selling. Back then, Nikka Pure Malt Black Label typically retailed for $50 to $65 per bottle, but as you can see above, I paid a paltry $120 for three bottles - forty bucks a bottle. Channeling my best penny stock sales pitch, their loss is your gain.

So what do we have in month six and why has its price skyrocketed? What you sampled in month six is a vatted malt whisky from the land of the rising sun - Japan. Before we dive into specifics, let's get some nomenclature out of the way - a vatted malt whisky is a blend consisting of only single malt whiskies. A non-vatted blend, simply known as a blended whisky, is a blend consisting of both single malt whiskies and grain-neutral spirits like vodka. If upon reading that, you immediately thought of Johnnie Walker, perhaps the most recognized whisky brand in the world, well done as Johnnie Walker exclusively sells blended whisky. Despite its brand recognition, only one of Johnnie Walker's seven standard offerings - Green Label - is a vatted blend. The remaining six, including the excessively expensive and hyped Blue Label is actually a blend of Scotch and other grain spirits. The more you know indeed and in my opinion, save your money on Blue Label; at that price you can purchase three bottles of the superior (again, in my opinion) Green Label.

The second bit of nomenclature is in regard to the term Scotch which has become synonymous and interchangeable in the global marketplace with whisky. Scotch however has a very specific definition - a 100% malted barley whisky distilled and aged in the country of Scotland. If you produce a 100% malted barley whisky in Japan, you have a Japanese malt whisky, not a Scotch.

With the legalities out of the way, why have Japanese whisky prices have soared? Even those casually familiar with the Japanese culture are aware that the Japanese have a near-obsessive attention to detail and a fanatically high standard of excellence in their work. From carpentry to metal working to the culinary arts, the Japanese generally consider the quality of their work a direct reflection on the quality of their culture. Japanese whisky in particular gained wide and well deserved recognition beginning in the 1980s for its near-perfect balance and presentation. For Japan's most revered whisky labels, it is said with zero hyperbole that every aspect of whisky production is scrutinized to unbelievable levels, even sorting and selecting each grain of barley to ensure perfect consistency. Both Nikka and Suntory produce malt whiskies that not only stand toe-to-toe with Scotland's finest, but in many cases are selected as superior in blind-taste judging.

There is one problem however - the Japanese do not produce a large quantity of whisky. Once Japanese whisky began earning award after award, it became harder and harder to procure, particularly any of the age-statement single malts. Then there is the 'Sideways' effect - Japanese whisky had its moment on the silver screen further propelling its allure, with Bill Murray no less, in 2003's Lost In Translation (be sure to read the video's top comment for a full translation of the Japanese dialogue). Today, it is extremely difficult, even nearly impossible, to find a bottle of age-statement Japanese single malt whisky from either Suntory or Nikka.

Nikka's own history is rather fascinating. In 1918, Masataka Taketsuru left Hiroshima, Japan for Glasgow, Scotland. He earned a degree in Organic Chemistry and worked at both the Longmorn and Hazelburn distilleries in Campbeltown before returning to Japan and founding his own distillery in Yoichi in 1934. The first Nikka whisky was sold six years later. Taketsuru opened a second distillery in Miyagikyo in 1969, ten years before his death.

Month six's sample is a blend consisting of single malt whisky from both distilleries. There is speculation that Black Label also contains malt from Nikka's Scottish distillery Ben Nevis, but there is nothing conclusive on that scuttlebutt. Up until the mid-2000s, Pure Malt Black Label carried a 12-year age statement but as is commonly the case in markets of surging demand and fixed output, the age statement was removed thereby allowing increased output. Nikka still produces a 17-year and 21-year Pure Malt blend carrying a current pricing of $160 and $200 respectively.

One word of caution - labeling laws regarding Japanese whisky allow producers to label a whisky as a Japanese whisky so long as it contains at least *some* Japanese whisky. Some unscrupulous producers have taken advantage of this loophole and are selling blends consisting of Japanese and non-Japanese whiskies yet labeling them 'Japanese Whisky'. When considering the purchase of a Japanese whisky, please spend a moment researching the product you are considering. The vast knowledge of the whisky nerds on the Internet will help ensure you are spending your hard-earned on a worthy product.

Tasting Notes



Group Impressions

One of the hallmarks of Japanese Malt Whisky is its remarkable balance - no one flavor or impression dominating the experience. Proving that some people cannot be pleased, I have actually read criticisms of Japanese Malt Whisky for being *too* balanced. LOL. As a huge testament to both the group as well as Nikka, virtually all impressions this month remarked at how balanced and enjoyable this whisky was. A few even zeroed in on suspecting this was a blend as it reminded them very much of Dewar's. Cheers to Japan and the group for making Month Six a great experience all around, see you in July!

Apollo
This one looked pretty nice in the glass. It had a golden color and long-lasting legs. The smell had a bit of a burn to it and perhaps a whiff of caramel.

After an initial sip, I noticed an alcohol burn that quickly went away leaving a tongue tingle that lasted for several seconds. I thought I picked up a hint of caramel in the taste as well, however the real flavor of this whiskey didn’t reveal itself until several seconds after swallowing. After the sip was gone, and the tongue tingle had disappeared, that’s when I noticed the peat flavor. It was quite a surprise to have a new flavor appearing so long after the sip.

I really liked this one. The delayed peat flavor was very interesting. In some whiskeys a peat taste can be overpowering, but this one was subtle. It was more of a peat aftertaste and a fairly light one. Because of the peat flavor, I suspect this whiskey is a scotch, and it’s one that I’d definitely be interested in drinking again.

Keoki
Our June tasting was (in my opinion) perfect for a summer day. If you are looking to drink scotch on a hot summers day, this would be the one to taste. Now, I'm all for a good lager or even a pilsner when I'm outside, but if I will be inside my go to is scotch.

This sample had a straw-like resemblance. Upon smell, I immediately thought I was going to taste Glenmorangie or Glenfiddich.  It had a fruity, oaky smell. However, it also had a little more spice to it--thus making me think it is something different.

The taste was similar to the nose. Smooth, delicate, with some spice for a nice kick.  Not too harsh or mellow, but still gives you a little kick to remind you it's there. Very tasty. Not much of a lingering taste.

All this being said, I think this is a second level scotch. What I mean by that is if I was introducing someone to the world of scotch, I wouldn't start with this one, but it would be the natural progression of the first. Similarly, if I knew someone could drink bud light, I'd then introduce them to a nice Oscar Blues pilsner next. I certainly wouldn't hit them with a 120min IPA.

My guess is this is a Speyside scotch.

Waldo Norris
So here goes....

I enjoyed this pour like it was an old friend. I thought I had it pegged, but I did in fact go to what I THOUGHT it was, and it had ever so subtle differences in flavor and heat.  I remember one of my first experiences with Scotch, with an old neighbor friend of mine. I say "old" lightly, as he was definitely older, loved his scotch, and proudly wore his grumpy old guy shirt. A good drinking buddy to say the least, but he gave me some good starts to the world of scotch. He typically enjoyed single malts, and was not afraid to pull out the special occasion bottle(s) to allow me to experience something new. On most nights however, he enjoyed a blended scotch (Dewar's White label), which I was fairly confident I was tasting this evening.

The glass pours a light amber color. The smell is a subtle earthiness with honey, with a slight balance of oak and pear, which makes the nose really crisp.

When tasting this, I picked up on the honey and vanilla, with a slight smokiness to it. Overall the taste was very clean, with only a subtle bite. The finish lingers long enough, but not to overwhelm and allows you to go back to another sip. In fact, I found myself forgetting that I was trying to analyze the flavors and balance, and instead I just simply enjoyed it. Neat and tidy, and a drop of water (of course).

If this is not Dewar's, I have found a must have for my cabinet for when my friend comes over. This is easily the closest bottle to his every occasion blended scotch, and I can proudly say I own (and frequent) this bottle, and drink it in good company.

Michael Doheny
Alcohol may be man's worst enemy, but the bible says love your enemy

House rules are as follows, first sample, straight. Second sample, splash of water to keep you honest, and lastly on the rocks, as God intended.

I dim all the lights and I sink in my chair. The color was pale, to almost clear at the edges. The smell reminded me of Halloween in Hoboken. A wash of diffused candy apple mixed with sea air and the last grumble of Autumn.

First sample had three distinct layers or waves of alcohol burn. From spike then to simmer and finally a smoldering warmth. The finish was medium to short, and I was taken aback by the hauntingly reminiscent taste. I’m not vitorioso of different whiskies, I’m more a stay with what I know, type of guy. But I’ll be a monkey’s uncle if this isn’t the ghost of a drink I never drank. The flavors were there, it’s flavors echoed those that we’d had before. It is no bourbon. There is none of the vile peet flavor. That is two it can’t be, and a world of things it might be. Let’s add a splash of water to try a little tenderness.

Color is weakened by the water, but not substantially, accounting for it’s already pale nature. The nose opened up and it had a sweet vanilla pinch. The water broke the flavor a bit, like ol’ 109 against the hull of the Amagiri. There were pepper flavors as well as a grain. Like drinking a bowl of life cereal without the milk. Subtle flavors that had been dormant in the straight sample. The water enhanced my enjoyment, it was no Ice cream on your apple pie, but made the sample more alive.

I watched the ice deposit it’s crude leavings in the gal for a minute or two. Like I said, I’m no Mister B double O, Z Eeee, (that sure spells booze), but I know what I like, and when it comes to whisky it is over ice.

Color clouded over faster than fog above the blue and windy sea of San Francisco bay. It looked unseamly. Something Dino would leave at the urologists office.  Pulled the sip in my mouth and dredged it with some air, and it was smooth daddy. I tell ya’, that ice wrapped my troubles in a dream. The burn stuck to the far corners of my mouth and danced there. Pepper was still there, as were the grains and caramel, but it all felt relaxed.

In the summer time, I’d want this over ice. On an icy day, with the wind biting at ya’ I could see going straight or cutting it with water.

I’ve got cold dice on this one, I could tell you a lot, but you've got to be true to your code, I don't stand a ghost of a chance with this one. I’m gonna lay a wager on it being a Single Malt Scotch Whisky, 12 - 15 years old.

Jonathan Quayle Higgins
Appearance
Light to medium Amber. There is that telltale orange glow indicative of artificial coloring. No official word on whether this whisky is artificially colored, but it is a safe bet considering the overwhelming majority of blended malt whiskies are artificially colored.

Nose
Malted barley, a hint of peat. Mild vanilla. Bit of orange, perhaps peach as well. The more time in the glass, the less I notice the peat and barley and the more I notice the vanilla and fruit.

Taste
Immediate rush of barley, mild sweetness, a wisp of bitter. Very minor alcohol burn. A slight soapy note. The smell of peat does not continue into the taste for me. Orange remains but only on the tail-end of the taste on the back of the tongue. Subsequent sips and the orange on the end of the taste is reminiscent of Grand Marnier

Finish
Nice gentle finish of spice. The spice sensation remains on the tongue for some time. The peat reemerges on the finish, particularly in the sinuses.

Overall
Balance, balance, balance. A bit of sweet, a bit of bitter, some fruit, some peat, plenty of barley. The alcohol is present but contained and never harsh. The most prominent aspect of this whisky is the spiciness left lingering on the tongue. The second most prominent aspect would be the emergence of orange in both taste and finish. This along with Macallan’s 10 Year Fine Oak would be among the first malt whiskies I would grab to pour for someone new to malt whisky. It is a shame that the price has skyrocketed in recent days. This is an easy whisky to recommend at $40 to $50, but not at $80. Kanpai and Arigato.

Carol Baldwin
Appearance:
Soft Amber color, slow to develop legs

Smell:
At the top a soft waft of peat. Mid notes vanilla and flowers. At the bottom, alcohol and a burn to the nostrils.

Taste:
At first, lightly peaty and woody. Some flowers. Then deepening into alcohol. A few drops of water did allow the flavors to become more pronounced.

Finish:
The finish was alcohol coupled with a pleasant warming burn on the tongue and down the throat.

General Thoughts:
This was a nice sipping whiskey. The flavors were mellow and smooth and there was some nice complexity there. I enjoyed that the flavors were subtle and blended well together, creating a nice experience. The finish capped off the experience with a slight burn and pleasant warming sensation. I enjoyed this month's sampling and am looking forward to the reveal.

Admiral Hawkes
This month’s selection had a light golden color and the unmistakable nose of a Scotch Whisky. This one was light on the smoke, with hints of apple and floral notes. The first sample, taken neat, revealed a bit more smoke on the palate than expected. The finish was almost sweet with more apple notes. There was no heat at all to speak of. My notes say 80 proof.

The second sample, a day later, sent me back to my pre-teen days. My dad would let me fix him his libation of choice, Dewars on the rocks, when he came home from work. Three cubes, two fingers of Scotch. One night, he came home and looked shaken. It turns out he had seen the unfortunate aftermath of a horrific accident on the highway. That night, he poured his own drink. I am guessing 4 adult fingers. But I digress. When I poured this one over the ice and lifted it to my nose, It took me back to those days in a flash. So I am locked in on a blend for that reason, if not the famous White Label itself.  Whatever it is, it is pleasant, and the kind of Scotch I could drink over the course of an evening, two fingers at a time.

Zeus
Appearance:
After swirling it in my glass like I have a clue what I'm doing, it appears light amber and has decent legs.

Smell:
Nice woody smell. Not overly powerful. Thinking a Scotch.

Taste:
Mild burn. Minor peaty taste, but took a second to hit me. Overall pretty smooth.

Finish: Afterburn is mild but very satisfying, lasts about 7-9 seconds. After adding some water to it had a similar taste but was smoother.

General Thoughts:
I like this guy a lot, perhaps my favorite of all the samplings. Very balanced, nice over taste, good after finish that makes me crave the sip after it dissipates. Reminds me of Oban that was one of my first go to Scotch's many years ago. I normally like my whiskey on the rocks, but this guy is fine without that help. One of the more smoother whiskeys I reviewed.