Month 6 - Taketsuru Pure Malt Black Label

Classification: Japanese Vatted Malt Whisky
Country: Japan
Region: Hokkaido (Yoichi: 43.187°N 140.792°W) and Tohoku (Miyagikyo: 38.308°N 140.651°W)
Mash Bill: 100% Malted Barley
Strength: 43.0% ABV (86.0° Proof)
Color: Unknown (most blends are artificially colored)
Filtration: Unknown (Most likely chill filtered)
Maturation: No Age Statement in unknown casks
Price: $39.99 (Publix Supermarkets)

Overview

What a difference a year can make. From the outset of this little experiment, my three promises to the group have been to send 1) readily available, 2) costing less than $75 per 750mL bottle, and 3) totally unadulterated whiskies each month. Unfortunately, as I write this, month six's whisky is in violation of rules one and two as it is sparsely available in only the largest of liquor stores and currently retails for $80. Allow me to throw myself on the mercy of the group.

When I actually purchased this whisky in early 2017 however, it was not only readily available but was purchased on clearance from a supermarket as it was not selling. Back then, Nikka Pure Malt Black Label typically retailed for $50 to $65 per bottle, but as you can see above, I paid a paltry $120 for three bottles - forty bucks a bottle. Channeling my best penny stock sales pitch, their loss is your gain.

So what do we have in month six and why has its price skyrocketed? What you sampled in month six is a vatted malt whisky from the land of the rising sun - Japan. Before we dive into specifics, let's get some nomenclature out of the way - a vatted malt whisky is a blend consisting of only single malt whiskies. A non-vatted blend, simply known as a blended whisky, is a blend consisting of both single malt whiskies and grain-neutral spirits like vodka. If upon reading that, you immediately thought of Johnnie Walker, perhaps the most recognized whisky brand in the world, well done as Johnnie Walker exclusively sells blended whisky. Despite its brand recognition, only one of Johnnie Walker's seven standard offerings - Green Label - is a vatted blend. The remaining six, including the excessively expensive and hyped Blue Label is actually a blend of Scotch and other grain spirits. The more you know indeed and in my opinion, save your money on Blue Label; at that price you can purchase three bottles of the superior (again, in my opinion) Green Label.

The second bit of nomenclature is in regard to the term Scotch which has become synonymous and interchangeable in the global marketplace with whisky. Scotch however has a very specific definition - a 100% malted barley whisky distilled and aged in the country of Scotland. If you produce a 100% malted barley whisky in Japan, you have a Japanese malt whisky, not a Scotch.

With the legalities out of the way, why have Japanese whisky prices have soared? Even those casually familiar with the Japanese culture are aware that the Japanese have a near-obsessive attention to detail and a fanatically high standard of excellence in their work. From carpentry to metal working to the culinary arts, the Japanese generally consider the quality of their work a direct reflection on the quality of their culture. Japanese whisky in particular gained wide and well deserved recognition beginning in the 1980s for its near-perfect balance and presentation. For Japan's most revered whisky labels, it is said with zero hyperbole that every aspect of whisky production is scrutinized to unbelievable levels, even sorting and selecting each grain of barley to ensure perfect consistency. Both Nikka and Suntory produce malt whiskies that not only stand toe-to-toe with Scotland's finest, but in many cases are selected as superior in blind-taste judging.

There is one problem however - the Japanese do not produce a large quantity of whisky. Once Japanese whisky began earning award after award, it became harder and harder to procure, particularly any of the age-statement single malts. Then there is the 'Sideways' effect - Japanese whisky had its moment on the silver screen further propelling its allure, with Bill Murray no less, in 2003's Lost In Translation (be sure to read the video's top comment for a full translation of the Japanese dialogue). Today, it is extremely difficult, even nearly impossible, to find a bottle of age-statement Japanese single malt whisky from either Suntory or Nikka.

Nikka's own history is rather fascinating. In 1918, Masataka Taketsuru left Hiroshima, Japan for Glasgow, Scotland. He earned a degree in Organic Chemistry and worked at both the Longmorn and Hazelburn distilleries in Campbeltown before returning to Japan and founding his own distillery in Yoichi in 1934. The first Nikka whisky was sold six years later. Taketsuru opened a second distillery in Miyagikyo in 1969, ten years before his death.

Month six's sample is a blend consisting of single malt whisky from both distilleries. There is speculation that Black Label also contains malt from Nikka's Scottish distillery Ben Nevis, but there is nothing conclusive on that scuttlebutt. Up until the mid-2000s, Pure Malt Black Label carried a 12-year age statement but as is commonly the case in markets of surging demand and fixed output, the age statement was removed thereby allowing increased output. Nikka still produces a 17-year and 21-year Pure Malt blend carrying a current pricing of $160 and $200 respectively.

One word of caution - labeling laws regarding Japanese whisky allow producers to label a whisky as a Japanese whisky so long as it contains at least *some* Japanese whisky. Some unscrupulous producers have taken advantage of this loophole and are selling blends consisting of Japanese and non-Japanese whiskies yet labeling them 'Japanese Whisky'. When considering the purchase of a Japanese whisky, please spend a moment researching the product you are considering. The vast knowledge of the whisky nerds on the Internet will help ensure you are spending your hard-earned on a worthy product.

Tasting Notes

Group Impressions

One of the hallmarks of Japanese Malt Whisky is its remarkable balance - no one flavor or impression dominating the experience. Proving that some people cannot be pleased, I have actually read criticisms of Japanese Malt Whisky for being *too* balanced. LOL. As a huge testament to both the group as well as Nikka, virtually all impressions this month remarked at how balanced and enjoyable this whisky was. A few even zeroed in on suspecting this was a blend as it reminded them very much of Dewar's. Cheers to Japan and the group for making Month Six a great experience all around, see you in July!

Apollo
This one looked pretty nice in the glass. It had a golden color and long-lasting legs. The smell had a bit of a burn to it and perhaps a whiff of caramel.

After an initial sip, I noticed an alcohol burn that quickly went away leaving a tongue tingle that lasted for several seconds. I thought I picked up a hint of caramel in the taste as well, however the real flavor of this whiskey didn’t reveal itself until several seconds after swallowing. After the sip was gone, and the tongue tingle had disappeared, that’s when I noticed the peat flavor. It was quite a surprise to have a new flavor appearing so long after the sip.

I really liked this one. The delayed peat flavor was very interesting. In some whiskeys a peat taste can be overpowering, but this one was subtle. It was more of a peat aftertaste and a fairly light one. Because of the peat flavor, I suspect this whiskey is a scotch, and it’s one that I’d definitely be interested in drinking again.

Keoki
Our June tasting was (in my opinion) perfect for a summer day. If you are looking to drink scotch on a hot summers day, this would be the one to taste. Now, I'm all for a good lager or even a pilsner when I'm outside, but if I will be inside my go to is scotch.

This sample had a straw-like resemblance. Upon smell, I immediately thought I was going to taste Glenmorangie or Glenfiddich.  It had a fruity, oaky smell. However, it also had a little more spice to it--thus making me think it is something different.

The taste was similar to the nose. Smooth, delicate, with some spice for a nice kick.  Not too harsh or mellow, but still gives you a little kick to remind you it's there. Very tasty. Not much of a lingering taste.

All this being said, I think this is a second level scotch. What I mean by that is if I was introducing someone to the world of scotch, I wouldn't start with this one, but it would be the natural progression of the first. Similarly, if I knew someone could drink bud light, I'd then introduce them to a nice Oscar Blues pilsner next. I certainly wouldn't hit them with a 120min IPA.

My guess is this is a Speyside scotch.

Waldo Norris
So here goes....

I enjoyed this pour like it was an old friend. I thought I had it pegged, but I did in fact go to what I THOUGHT it was, and it had ever so subtle differences in flavor and heat.  I remember one of my first experiences with Scotch, with an old neighbor friend of mine. I say "old" lightly, as he was definitely older, loved his scotch, and proudly wore his grumpy old guy shirt. A good drinking buddy to say the least, but he gave me some good starts to the world of scotch. He typically enjoyed single malts, and was not afraid to pull out the special occasion bottle(s) to allow me to experience something new. On most nights however, he enjoyed a blended scotch (Dewar's White label), which I was fairly confident I was tasting this evening.

The glass pours a light amber color. The smell is a subtle earthiness with honey, with a slight balance of oak and pear, which makes the nose really crisp.

When tasting this, I picked up on the honey and vanilla, with a slight smokiness to it. Overall the taste was very clean, with only a subtle bite. The finish lingers long enough, but not to overwhelm and allows you to go back to another sip. In fact, I found myself forgetting that I was trying to analyze the flavors and balance, and instead I just simply enjoyed it. Neat and tidy, and a drop of water (of course).

If this is not Dewar's, I have found a must have for my cabinet for when my friend comes over. This is easily the closest bottle to his every occasion blended scotch, and I can proudly say I own (and frequent) this bottle, and drink it in good company.

Michael Doheny
Alcohol may be man's worst enemy, but the bible says love your enemy

House rules are as follows, first sample, straight. Second sample, splash of water to keep you honest, and lastly on the rocks, as God intended.

I dim all the lights and I sink in my chair. The color was pale, to almost clear at the edges. The smell reminded me of Halloween in Hoboken. A wash of diffused candy apple mixed with sea air and the last grumble of Autumn.

First sample had three distinct layers or waves of alcohol burn. From spike then to simmer and finally a smoldering warmth. The finish was medium to short, and I was taken aback by the hauntingly reminiscent taste. I’m not vitorioso of different whiskies, I’m more a stay with what I know, type of guy. But I’ll be a monkey’s uncle if this isn’t the ghost of a drink I never drank. The flavors were there, it’s flavors echoed those that we’d had before. It is no bourbon. There is none of the vile peet flavor. That is two it can’t be, and a world of things it might be. Let’s add a splash of water to try a little tenderness.

Color is weakened by the water, but not substantially, accounting for it’s already pale nature. The nose opened up and it had a sweet vanilla pinch. The water broke the flavor a bit, like ol’ 109 against the hull of the Amagiri. There were pepper flavors as well as a grain. Like drinking a bowl of life cereal without the milk. Subtle flavors that had been dormant in the straight sample. The water enhanced my enjoyment, it was no Ice cream on your apple pie, but made the sample more alive.

I watched the ice deposit it’s crude leavings in the gal for a minute or two. Like I said, I’m no Mister B double O, Z Eeee, (that sure spells booze), but I know what I like, and when it comes to whisky it is over ice.

Color clouded over faster than fog above the blue and windy sea of San Francisco bay. It looked unseamly. Something Dino would leave at the urologists office.  Pulled the sip in my mouth and dredged it with some air, and it was smooth daddy. I tell ya’, that ice wrapped my troubles in a dream. The burn stuck to the far corners of my mouth and danced there. Pepper was still there, as were the grains and caramel, but it all felt relaxed.

In the summer time, I’d want this over ice. On an icy day, with the wind biting at ya’ I could see going straight or cutting it with water.

I’ve got cold dice on this one, I could tell you a lot, but you've got to be true to your code, I don't stand a ghost of a chance with this one. I’m gonna lay a wager on it being a Single Malt Scotch Whisky, 12 - 15 years old.

Jonathan Quayle Higgins
Appearance
Light to medium Amber. There is that telltale orange glow indicative of artificial coloring. No official word on whether this whisky is artificially colored, but it is a safe bet considering the overwhelming majority of blended malt whiskies are artificially colored.

Nose
Malted barley, a hint of peat. Mild vanilla. Bit of orange, perhaps peach as well. The more time in the glass, the less I notice the peat and barley and the more I notice the vanilla and fruit.

Taste
Immediate rush of barley, mild sweetness, a wisp of bitter. Very minor alcohol burn. A slight soapy note. The smell of peat does not continue into the taste for me. Orange remains but only on the tail-end of the taste on the back of the tongue. Subsequent sips and the orange on the end of the taste is reminiscent of Grand Marnier

Finish
Nice gentle finish of spice. The spice sensation remains on the tongue for some time. The peat reemerges on the finish, particularly in the sinuses.

Overall
Balance, balance, balance. A bit of sweet, a bit of bitter, some fruit, some peat, plenty of barley. The alcohol is present but contained and never harsh. The most prominent aspect of this whisky is the spiciness left lingering on the tongue. The second most prominent aspect would be the emergence of orange in both taste and finish. This along with Macallan’s 10 Year Fine Oak would be among the first malt whiskies I would grab to pour for someone new to malt whisky. It is a shame that the price has skyrocketed in recent days. This is an easy whisky to recommend at $40 to $50, but not at $80. Kanpai and Arigato.

Carol Baldwin
Appearance:
Soft Amber color, slow to develop legs

Smell:
At the top a soft waft of peat. Mid notes vanilla and flowers. At the bottom, alcohol and a burn to the nostrils.

Taste:
At first, lightly peaty and woody. Some flowers. Then deepening into alcohol. A few drops of water did allow the flavors to become more pronounced.

Finish:
The finish was alcohol coupled with a pleasant warming burn on the tongue and down the throat.

General Thoughts:
This was a nice sipping whiskey. The flavors were mellow and smooth and there was some nice complexity there. I enjoyed that the flavors were subtle and blended well together, creating a nice experience. The finish capped off the experience with a slight burn and pleasant warming sensation. I enjoyed this month's sampling and am looking forward to the reveal.

Admiral Hawkes
This month’s selection had a light golden color and the unmistakable nose of a Scotch Whisky. This one was light on the smoke, with hints of apple and floral notes. The first sample, taken neat, revealed a bit more smoke on the palate than expected. The finish was almost sweet with more apple notes. There was no heat at all to speak of. My notes say 80 proof.

The second sample, a day later, sent me back to my pre-teen days. My dad would let me fix him his libation of choice, Dewars on the rocks, when he came home from work. Three cubes, two fingers of Scotch. One night, he came home and looked shaken. It turns out he had seen the unfortunate aftermath of a horrific accident on the highway. That night, he poured his own drink. I am guessing 4 adult fingers. But I digress. When I poured this one over the ice and lifted it to my nose, It took me back to those days in a flash. So I am locked in on a blend for that reason, if not the famous White Label itself.  Whatever it is, it is pleasant, and the kind of Scotch I could drink over the course of an evening, two fingers at a time.

Zeus
Appearance:
After swirling it in my glass like I have a clue what I'm doing, it appears light amber and has decent legs.

Smell:
Nice woody smell. Not overly powerful. Thinking a Scotch.

Taste:
Mild burn. Minor peaty taste, but took a second to hit me. Overall pretty smooth.

Finish: Afterburn is mild but very satisfying, lasts about 7-9 seconds. After adding some water to it had a similar taste but was smoother.

General Thoughts:
I like this guy a lot, perhaps my favorite of all the samplings. Very balanced, nice over taste, good after finish that makes me crave the sip after it dissipates. Reminds me of Oban that was one of my first go to Scotch's many years ago. I normally like my whiskey on the rocks, but this guy is fine without that help. One of the more smoother whiskeys I reviewed.