Wednesday, October 31, 2018

Month 10 - Jack Daniel's Single Barrel Barrel Proof


Jack Daniel's Single Barrel Barrel Proof
Classification: Tennessee Whiskey
Country: United States of America
Region: Tennessee (Lynchburg: 35.285N, -86.368W)
Mash Bill: 80% Corn, 8% Rye, 12% Malted Barley
Strength: 66.1% ABV (132.2° Proof)
Color: Natural Color
Filtration: Non-Chill Filtered
Maturation: Unknown Age (thought to be 6-8 years) in 100% New Charred Oak
Price: $64.99 (ABC Fine Wine & Spirits)

Overview

Sixty-six point one percent alcohol! Just let that sink in and realize that Month Ten's sample was two-thirds ethanol, now that is some firepower. Easily the highest proof whiskey sampled to date (can we go even higher?!), this is also our first sample that is effectively 'straight from the barrel'. The vast majority of whiskey sold at retail is 'proofed down' by adding purified water to the whiskey before being bottled. Not so in Month Ten, in fact, the only thing done to our whiskey between the barrel and the bottle was a coarse mesh straining to prevent any chunks of the barrel from finding their way into the bottle.

While barrel proof whiskeys are fun and sought after by many whiskey nerds, one should not feel that proofed whiskeys are 'bad', quite the contrary in fact. Sure there are some producers that proof their whiskey down too much to stretch supplies and maximize profit, but there are also producers that proof down their whiskey to the 'perfect' proof, finding the proper balance between alcohol punch, flavor, and consumer enjoyability.

Part of the justification for Month Ten's selection is that October is the month that Mr. Jack Daniel died (October 9, 1911), but a bigger reason is that Month Ten takes us to yet another new whiskey classification, and perhaps one of the most contentious - Tennessee Whiskey. Peppered throughout whiskey blogs and forums there rages a near-constant debate - is Jack Daniel's a bourbon? Officially and legally, the answer is no, Jack Daniel's is not a bourbon, it is a Tennessee Whiskey. Though Tennessee Whiskey is made in such a way that it could legally be called a bourbon, Jack Daniel's actively lobbied for a legal classification to separate their offerings from those of neighboring Kentucky. That legal distinction came in both 1941 when the Internal Revenue Service declared Jack Daniel's as distinct from both bourbon and rye as well as 2013 when Tennessee's governor signed a bill defining 'Tennessee Whiskey'.

The crux of the 2013 legal definition revolves around the notion of filtering whiskey through maple charcoal - also known as the Lincoln County Process. Jack Daniel's burns planks of sugar maple into charcoal, then grinds the charcoal into pebbles and finally fills vats with the pebbles to a depth of ten feet. At this point, all fresh-made distillate off the still is trickled over the vats of charcoal and collected at the bottom of the vat. From there, the whiskey is barreled and sent to the warehouse to age. No bourbon producer in Kentucky utilizes the Lincoln County Process, but there is no regulation preventing them from doing so. Conversely, not all Tennessee Whiskey producers use the Lincoln County Process, but only Prichard's is legally allowed to abstain from the process and call their resultant whiskey Tennessee Whiskey. Welcome to the world of labeling and regulatory affairs!

Fun fact - distillate destined to become Gentleman Jack is passed through the charcoal a second time before bottling. Fun fact #2 - historians agree that freed slave Nathan 'Nearest' Green is the one who most likely taught Jack Daniel about the Lincoln County Process before he founded his namesake distillery in 1875. There is no dispute that Nathan Green was hired to be the first head distiller at Jack Daniel's upon its founding. Fun fact #3 - the whiskey sampled in Month Ten is the very first barrel proof offering ever released by Jack Daniel's!

If you care to read more about the legal wrangling swirling around Tennessee Whiskey and Jack Daniel's, please check out Chuck Cowdery's fantastic synopsis from earlier this year.

Despite owning Old Forester and Woodford Reserve, I suspect it is Jack Daniel's that is the crown jewel in Brown-Forman's portfolio. The brand recognition of Old Number 7 is undeniable and it is year-in and year-out the #1 selling whiskey in the United States. If you travel overseas, Jack is typically one of the few, if not only American whiskey you will see on store and bar shelves. Jack was not always the barnburner of American whiskey however, in fact through the early 1940s, Jack Daniel's was considered a small-time player. That began to change shortly after, as legend has it, in 1947 when Jackie Gleason suggested to Frank Sinatra "Jack Daniel's. That's a good place to start" while he contemplated his drink order. Whether that legend is true or not is moot really, because ultimately Old Blue Eyes became the brand's best ambassador. Despite never being a paid spokesman for the brand, Frank vocally proclaimed his love of the whiskey wherever he happened to be which in turn caused sales to skyrocket worldwide. Legend also has it that he was even buried with a bottle of Old No. 7 in his jacket pocket. So with that, we shall raise a glass and drink it Frank's way - three rocks, two fingers, and a splash of water; that's the nectar of the gods baby!

Tasting Notes


Courtesy of Breaking Bourbon (https://www.breakingbourbon.com/jack-daniels-single-barrel-barrel-proof.html)

Group Impressions

Truth be told, I very nearly included a warning label when I sent out Month Ten's samples. Barrel proof whiskeys are not to be trifled with and are certainly not 'amateur' experiences as they are effectively impossible to enjoy neat. But the choice to send such a high-proof spirit this late into the experiment was intentional and I put my faith in each person's accrued nose and tongue experience. My faith was well-placed as each impression noted immediately the whiskey's potency. A second universal observation was this whiskey's American roots, specifically bourbon and while this is not technically correct, as discussed above, nothing in the Jack Daniel's process precludes it from being labeled as a bourbon. Many zeroed in on Jack hallmarks - vanilla, caramel, and oak and a few commented on the oily, buttery mouth-feel (thanks non-chill filtered!). Why there was even a second banana mention! Fantastic stuff all around and what a way to usher in the fall season.

Admiral Hawkes
So I approached the October selection with a sense of duty. Opening the bottle, I sensed a bourbon right away. It was dark, yet had a sense of lightness in the glass. The first taste was about oak and almonds for me. Heat was evident on the nose, tongue and throat, so it felt like a high proof bourbon. The aftertaste, after a breath or two, was actually quite nice. That said, it was satisfying and strangely familiar. Was it something I already had in my cabinet?

I took out my treasured bottle of Blanton’s. At 93 proof, it might be close. The color was essentially identical in the bottle, yet the mystery dram showed darker at the bottom of the glass.  I took pics (one in the bottle, one in the glass), is that allowed?
In the Bottle...
In the Glass...
So it definitely was not Blanton’s, which is softer and has a velvety, honeyed fruitiness that sets it apart.  The mystery selection was also definitely hotter than the Blanton’s. So I’d have to peg it at 100 to 120 proof. That puts it in the orb of Knob Creek or Booker’s, perhaps something on the high proof side of the Wild Turkey family. I am fairly certain it is not Knob Creek, which generally exudes from my pores. But it is an interesting, strong and bold bourbon. I’ve not yet put it in a Manhattan, but that will happen with the last shot. I am quite sure it will shine in that glass.

Apollo
This month's sample looked like it had potential. It had a nice dark color and decent legs. The smell wasn't too overpowering. I detected a hint of caramel and something else that I couldn't quite identify.

Upon tasting it, however, I was overwhelmed by the impressive alcohol burn. That amount of burn is unprecedented in my, somewhat limited, whiskey experience. The burn made it difficult to pick out any particular flavors. I typically drink my whiskey neat, but even with an ice cube in it, this one still had a lot of burn. It also had a strange aftertaste that I must have misidentified as being somewhat fishy. That can't be right, can it? I've never heard of a fishy tasting whiskey! I was actually wondering if there was something wrong with my taste buds. I had to take a sip of Glenfiddich just to make sure I was correctly calibrated. lol

It did have an interesting mouth feel, however. It had a very drying effect on the mouth, which is another thing I've never noticed in a whiskey before. This would seem to be more evidence of a high alcohol content. My guess is that this must be a cask strength whiskey, which is something I've never tasted before.

So, overall, this one was strange and very unique in my experience. I wouldn't say I particularly enjoyed it though. The alcohol burn made it difficult to enjoy, in my opinion. I don't think I'll picking this one up at my local store any time soon.

Michael Doheny
This months allowance was a deep copper color, but looked mighty brighter when looked at from the top of the glass to the bottom. There was a strong smell in the glass, but beyond the alcohol, it was near impossible to discern any other scent.

House rules are as follows, first sample, straight. Second sample, splash of water to keep you honest, and lastly on the rocks, as God intended.

Caramel, or toffee flavor was very prominent before being scorched by the tsunami of heat that crashed around the insides of my mouth. There was a thickness to the drink, almost a full bodied creaminess spiked with pepper. As I finish the sample, my tongue almost feels swollen from the heat.

Added a splash of water to the next sample, but it doesn’t take much starch out of it at all. Color is diluted somewhat, but it seems as though the water had not fully mixed, but rather acts like a solution or suspension, swirling in the copper color like some lava lamp.

The flavor is more butter or cream than toffee, and the heat is still sufficiently stoked in my mouth. The thickness of the first sample is still present, but it is disrupted by the water.  Its heat is distracting from whatever flavors maybe beneath the alcohol. The burn is tamped down, and the sweetness is cut back. It is almost apple in flavor. Reminiscent of the dry unsweetened ciders of the appleseed days.

The color looks American. I’d also say it is a high ABV. Due to the lack of balance, I’d say it is some sort of blended whisky.

Jonathan Quayle Higgins
Appearance
Light copper in the glass. Ridiculously lethargic tears and legs form when swirled in the glass. Easily the laziest whiskey sampled in this regard.

Nose
Alcohol, maple, caramel, vanilla, some smoke. Years ago, I read that banana was a signature component of the Jack Daniel’s smell. I swear I smell some banana here, but I am worried that is confirmation bias. Like the sirens gently beckoning go to sleep, little babe to Ulysses, Pete, and Delmar, the nose enamors you, keeping the proof-bomb well hidden until the first sip.

Taste
I’m going to do it…. I’m taking a sip neat...
WOW! That is an assault on the tongue! The alcohol on the first sip is ever present, mouth coating, like the first time you eat authentically spicy food (Thai, Mexican, etc.). The mouth feel is incredible neat - oily and clingy, like an oil-spill in the mouth. Subsequent sips are calmer as the tongue and mouth are prepped for the alcohol (or my taste buds are blanched by the alcohol). There is definite vanilla, oak, a mild sweetness and damn if there is not banana again.

Let’s add some water, usually just a splash, but this time it will be a healthy dollop.

Oh the nose seems much more vibrant now. Prominent vanilla, wisp of spearmint, definite oak as well. Water really helps tame the ethanol punch, that or my mouth really is accustomed to the whiskey now. It is a delicious whiskey with water, like building a bakery in the middle of a lumber aisle - oodles of vanilla and oak. There is not a rush of sweetness, this is not a sugar bomb, but there is just the right amount of sweetness here. The taste starts with vanilla and oak, the spice builds and builds then fades into that slight sweetness, slight bitterness, slight dryness. How very unique and interesting. Amazing how different this is than Old No. 7.

Finish
On the long side for me. The finish to me contains the lion’s share of the sweetness found in the experience. The oak is the first to fade, then the spice, and what’s left is a vanilla sweetness. Really delicious finish. It is fair to expect such a high proof whiskey to leave a long lasting finish and this whiskey certainly does not disappoint. The finish however is not as long as some lower proof whiskeys I have had. For example, peated malts from Islay, despite being lower in proof, tend to have a much longer finish for me. I certainly don’t intend to undersell the finish here, it is warm, lasting, and fulfilling, just not as long as I expected going into the sample.

Overall
What a fantastic offering from Jack. For years their hallmark product, Old Number 7, has been considered more of a mixing whiskey despite being known as a ‘sippin’ whiskey’. That began to change for me with Gentleman Jack, but this Single Barrel Barrel Proof is a whole different beast. With proper dilution, I would put this sample up against the best from Kentucky; blasphemous speak to some for sure, but for me the experience is just as enjoyable while being quite unique from traditional bourbons. Well down Brown-Forman for not only making such a product readily available, but doing so at an obscenely reasonable price.

Zeus
Appearance: dark Amber, no noticeable legs

Smell: Raisin, fruity like scent. Very mild however, I had to really dig my nose into the glass to pick it up.

Taste:
Oh my. Ack! what the hell! I'm hit with an overpowering sensation that is hard to describe. It's like my taste buds are instantly numbed and then I'm hit with a burn after a second or so. The taste is...bland? I can't really pick anything out when I first sip it. Follow up sips are the same, with the burn being significantly less. The taste only comes through with the finish for me. I'm not picking up much of a wood taste for some reason.

Finish:
Burn baby burn! My throat was hit with a burn that lasted 20 seconds or so. My tongue is left with a taste that I was expecting from the initial smell, a nice raisin like taste. After the third or fourth tasting that burning sensation weakened significantly to the point I really enjoyed the after taste.

General Thoughts:
Complex this one is. Not an amateur whiskey. I probably would want to start off with this on the rocks or with some water until my taste buds adapt to it next time. I did put in a ice cube after several tastings but it seemed weaker then I would of liked. I suspect this is a high proof whiskey.  Most likely a bourbon.

Carol Baldwin
Appearance: Golden Amber color, decent legs

Smell: Honey, caramel, vanilla

Taste:. Honey, maple syrup, vanilla, caramel, and wood with a strong alcohol punch.

Finish: Lingering sweet notes of vanilla and caramel with pronounced earthy wood. And a hint of banana? Very strong alcohol afterburn.

General Thoughts:
Wow this is really sweet and really strong. Absolutely must be a higher proof.  My guess is a bourbon from the sweet notes and the color. The flavors are typical bourbon, but the woody finish is very pronounced in this one. This whiskey has a big personality; possibly cask strength? The flavors are so in your face that it seems too much drinking it neat. Some ice and a bit of dilution calmed it down very nicely.

Keoki
October’s offering was very interesting.

Smelled like a pretty normal bourbon upon smell.  It had a good, dark color—-maybe a tad darker than most bourbons.

As always, I normally try the sample without any water to start. I was...surprised.

I couldn’t believe how strong it was! It really hit me hard—it actually made me start coughing.  I normally drink scotch neat—-or maybe just a drop of water.

I couldn’t handle this sample without a touch of water.  Once doing that, I actually enjoyed the sample.  It had a pleasant sweet flavor—-and wasn’t overwhelming.

I would recommend this as a great gift for a bourbon lover—-however, I don’t think it would be good for a beginner.

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