Wednesday, September 5, 2018

Staving Off the Summer Heat

Now, what we got here is a little game of show and tell. You don't wanna show me nothing but you're telling me everything.

Monday, September 3, 2018

Month 8 - Glenmorangie Quinta Ruban


Glenmorangie - The Quinta Ruban
Classification: Single Malt Scotch Whisky
Country: Scotland, United Kingdom
Region: Highlands (Tain, Ross-shire: 57.826N, -4.078W)
Mash Bill: 100% Malted Barley
Strength: 46.0% ABV (92.0° Proof)
Color: Natural Color
Filtration: Non-Chill Filtered
Maturation: 12 years (10 years American bourbon barrels, 2 years Portuguese ruby port pipes)
Price: $57.99 (Total Wine)

Overview

Ahh, back to our beloved Scotland for Month 8. I am sure the brand name is familiar, but just in case, as in Month 4, let's start with how I was told to pronounce the distillery's name. Glenmorangie is comprised of three syllables and breaks down as the three words Glenn-Mourn-Gee. Put the emphasis on the middle syllable and off you go. I have also heard the pronunciation Glenn-More-Angie throughout the years, but once had a Scotsman adamantly insist that was a common, but totally incorrect pronunciation. I'm sticking with the mourn-gee on this one.

Glenmorangie has been making alcohol of one form or another for a long time. Things all got started on the Morangie Farm in 1703. A formal brewery was built on the farm in the 1730s and by 1843, a distillery was built and whisky production began. Incredibly, the Morangie Farm and Glenmorangie brand remained family owned through 2004, but both were ultimately sold to Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton (which in turn is partially owned by drinks giant Diageo).

Month 8's whisky - Glenmorangie's Quinta Ruban - is one of four 'core' expressions produced by Glenmorangie. Each of the four expressions differ in maturation, but all start life as Glenmorangie's 'The Original' which is the result of their distillate spending ten years in American ex-bourbon barrels. From here, some of the ten-year malt is sent for bottling (The Original) while the remaining is sent to one of three different wine barrels for an additional two years - Sherry casks from Spain (The Lasanta), Sauternes casks from France (Nectar d'Or), or Port casks from Portugal (Quinta Ruban).

The first thing that jumps out when looking at a bottle of Quinta Ruban is its majestic reddish-copper color. Some single malts that feature such a glorious color are artificially colored, but thankfully, this is not the case with the Quinta Ruban. The color you see is overwhelmingly due to the two years the whisky spent in its port barrel home. Speaking of port barrels, they are commonly called port pipes due to their elongated shape and are quite large, typically three times the size of an American bourbon barrel, holding over 160 gallons of liquid. Gaze upon their titanic awesomeness!

Put that in your pipe and smoke it

Speaking of barrels, it is a lesser known fact that Glenmorangie owns their own forest in Missouri's Ozark Mountains. Here they fell their own American white oak, cure the timber for two years, then send the oak to either Heaven Hill Distilleries (producer of Month 2 and Month 7's whiskeys!) or Jack Daniel's to age their respective whiskeys before dumping and sending the empty barrels to Glenmorangie to begin aging their malts. In a rather rare proclamation, Glenmorangie state in writing that they only use their barrels twice. Very few Scottish distilleries state precisely how many times they refill their casks in their lifetime, with many speculating that barrels are reused five, six, or even more times.

Glenmorangie proudly boasts operating the tallest stills in the whole of Scotland. Standing 26 feet, the distillery claims the tall stills ensure 'that only the very lightest and purest vapours make it to the top, giving a smoother, more elegant whisky.' While the marketing speak is high, there is some scientific merit to the claim, but please realize there are far more variables in producing a quality distillate than just still height. As for what those variables are, I apologize, but I will leave that as an exercise to the reader. (p.s. - email me when you complete that exercise, I would love to learn myself)

Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton deserve a lot of credit for the entire Glenmorangie line. Not only are the core expressions readily available, but they are relative bargains in comparison to their single malt shelf mates. Further, the three extra-matured expressions are far from marketing gimmicks. The Sherry, Sauternes, and Port barrels each altar the base Glenmorangie in unique and delicious ways creating wildly different experiences. Finally, and crucially, Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton deserve a standing ovation for offering two of the three (sorry Lasanta) wine-barrel finished malts as age-stated, non-chill filtered, and at an above-average 46% ABV. These facets of quality ensure a better overall experience for the consumer. Had Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton decided to cut those corners to eek out a bit more profit, the haunting subtlety of malt mingled with ancient wines would be, to a large degree, lost. And that dear malt mates and bourbon buddies would be a travesty. Well done Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton.

Tasting Notes



Group Impressions

Such a fun month. While the color of the whisky gave all pause, virtually everyone zeroed in that this whisky most likely hailed from Scotland due to its malty aroma and taste. Month Eight provides perfect justification that a book should never be judged by its cover - it had the appearance of an American whiskey, but it certainly did not smell or taste like one. I chuckled when I read in one impression the mention of a 'tawny' color. Oh how appropriate that observation was given our whisky's port influence. Another near-universal observation was the sense that this whisky was higher proof but did not taste or smell of a high proof malt. For me, this is the ultimate testament to the quality of maturation Glenmorangie affords their malts.

Further, more than one impression put forth the guess that not only was Month 8 a Scotch, but a Scotch hailing from the Speyside region. Close, very close, but alas, Glenmorangie is a Highland malt, albeit geographically very close to Speyside.

Interestingly, a few mentioned the possibility of this whisky working well in cocktails. Scotch traditionally has never been a popular mixing whisky, but perhaps a wine-finished whisky like Quinta Ruban could rebuke this trend. Challenge Accepted.

Thanks to all for another great month. With Month Eight firmly in the rear-view, we screech toward the horizon; first stop - Month Nine. Cheers to you all.

Waldo Norris
The color of this glass is not something I ever had to describe before. A "Tawny" color (yes, i had to look that up), which gave hues of red mixed with amber.

The legs took a long time to develop and slowly moved down the glass.

When i smelled the glass, I smelled fresh apples, pears, and vanilla. This certainly smelled sweet, but did have just enough of the burn to let you know there was a moderate amount of alcohol.

The first taste was very fresh tasting at the beginning. It was subtle on the tongue, and in the mouth.  Again, I noted fresh apples, perhaps a bit the pear and a hint of vanilla. A medium finish, as it reached the back of the mouth and down the throat. It didn't stick around for long after, but left a nice impression, and something I would definitely order our pour for myself or friends.

This was a really nice pre-meal Single Malt Whiskey. I would think this is fairly young. Any chance we have a SPEY?

Thanks again as always!  I am having a ton of fun with this!

Apollo
This one looked like it was going to be pretty interesting. It had a nice dark, sort of golden brown color. It stuck to the inside of the glass for quite a while before finally dripping down in fairly small legs.

When I smelled it, however, I couldn't pick out much besides a general sweetness and possibly a hint of butterscotch.

The taste was similar to the smell in the sense that nothing really jumped out at me. I even tried it with a splash of water and also with an ice cube, but it just tasted kind of plain to me. It did taste a bit sweet so I'm going to guess that it's a bourbon.

For my tastes, this one wasn't very interesting. It didn't separate itself from the pack at all, in my opinion. There was nothing wrong with it, it just seemed pretty standard in every way. While I didn't mind it, I wouldn't go out of my way to sample it again.

Keoki
Our August offering was right up my alley.
When I got the sample from Johnathan, it was a contrast in styles. It looked a dark, rich amber color. From sight alone, I figured we had something strong and intense.

However, on smell, I noticed a very mild fragrance. It reminded me of a Speyside malt.

Taste was exquisite. It had the sweetness and spice. Sometimes with the delicate Scotches you get a lot of sweetness and a barley taste. This one, however, lended a nice spicey note that is not common in my experience.
I really enjoyed this offering.  I have since moved towards more peaty offerings, but this is a great intermediate-level scotch that you could build on a traditional Speyside. 10/10 would recommend.

Admiral Hawkes
This month's selection appeared to be a pleasant scotch whisky by look and nose.

Upon opening the lightish amber dram, the first whiff was the malty, ever so smokey aroma of Scotch.  This one didn't have fire in the nostrils, leading me to guess 80-86 proof.  The were hints of orchard fruit on the nose as well. I imbibed this sample in two sittings.

The first, as always, was neat. The low amount of heat translated to the taste, and this one was pretty smooth. The apple orchard aroma didn't really translate to taste notes, but there was some earthiness and nutty notes for me. I wondered as I sipped whether this was a blend.

A week later, I poured the remaining sample over a large ice ball. I must say it was a good pour and it went down faster than I would have thought. Chilled and only slightly watered down by a slow melt (and a fast quaff!), the drink was even smoother. I got a little bit more of fruit-type notes on this pour, but could not put my finger on the exact flavor.

This was an enjoyable selection, maybe more of an everyday drinker than a special treat. I've never made a mixed drink with scotch, but perhaps this would be a candidate for a first try. Any suggestions, gang?

Zeus
Appearance: Nice amber color. Above average legs. Persistent legs. 'Why won't you go away' legs. I like saying legs. LEGS!!!

Smell:
Powerful medicinal smell initially. After several sniffs I started to pull out a nice mellow woody smell. Perhaps brown sugar. Dare I say maple syrup?  I did say it.

Taste:
Light taste on initial contact. The first second ... it almost seemed like it was watered down. It's followed up by a moderate burn that was a huge contrast in comparison.

Adding an ice cube eliminated the burn completely. It washed out the taste a bit too much for my liking.

Finish:
Far more potent after taste. I sensed a caramel like taste after several sips. I'm left with a woody taste that makes me think of a Scotch, but no Scotch would have such a lack luster initial taste. I think. Damn it, this guy has got me confused.

The finish after adding an ice cube was also a bit washed out.

General Thoughts:
This is a really nice whiskey I can see myself casually drinking. Perhaps it would be good in a mixed drink paired with a more potent whiskey cousin.

While it did not taste like a high proof whiskey I did feel it affecting me faster than most 80 proof types. The legs kind of say it's a high proof to me, but I still am not sure.

I'm really not confidently locking to the type of whiskey.  I'll go with a lackluster vote to a mild rye whiskey.

LEGS!!!

Jonathan Quayle Higgins
Appearance
Reddish-copper. Nice long, slow legs in the glass. Wow, the more I gaze at the whisky in the glass the more I appreciate the magnificent contribution of the port barrels.

Nose
Ahhh, the delicious malt sweetness right off the bat. No alcohol punch, warm, gentle, inviting. After five or so minutes in the glass a jammy wine begins to present itself. Some orange on deeper sniffs. Does it smell like a port? To a degree yes, but not as sweet or cloying as the ports I have enjoyed in the past. Wow, a deliciously subtle and nuanced nose. I have been on a bourbon run the past couple of weeks, perhaps my nose has been beat into submission by the bold, fire-rich whiskeys from Kentucky and really appreciates the subtle elegance here.

Taste
Malt up front. A bit more alcohol burn and a bit less fruit than the nose had me anticipating. A gentle open that builds to a medium level of spice. A bit of barrel char upon swallowing. Black pepper. Upon the third or fourth sip, the jammy sweetness appears mid-taste; I wonder if this is my tongue getting past the alcohol wallop in the first few sips.

Finish
Oh nice warming finish. Dare I say a bit of Kentuc...err Scottish hug. There are aspects of this finish that remind me of the ports I have enjoyed during dessert courses of various meals through the years. I would say the finish produces the strongest ‘this is a port’ sensation for me in the entire experience.

Overall
Well I have nothing negative to say about this single malt. I enjoyed the sip from the first to the last. For me, I feel the port finish differentiates this malt to such a degree that it is absolutely worth keeping a bottle on your shelf. In a sea of sherry cask finished single malts, the port finish of Quinta Ruban really makes this dram stand out to me.

Carol Baldwin
Appearance:
Golden Amber. Easily developed numerous legs after swirling the glass.

Smell:
Sharp. Somewhat grassy. Wood as I sniffed deeper into the glass.

Taste:
Sharp, woody, and warming with a strong alcohol burn.

Finish:
Clean, some wood, and a bit astringent.

General Thoughts:
Neat this whiskey had a strong sharp taste with woody flavors and a fairly strong afterburn. I suspect this whiskey is a higher proof. Not sure of the origins but I would bet my life this is not a bourbon. Adding a bit of water did help to bring the flavors out and somewhat tame the alcohol burn. Really a nicely balanced whiskey. I enjoyed sipping this and I'm looking forward to finding out what this month's pick was.

Friday, August 17, 2018

The Genius of Tasting Panels



What you see above *should* be nearly identical whiskeys as both are distilled, aged, and bottled by Jim Beam in Clermont, Kentucky. Both were distilled and bottled to the same proof from the same mash bill, fermented with the same yeast for the same amount of time, and finally run through the same column still at the same temperature. Both were put into effectively identical barrels that were charred to the same degree. Both were rolled into one of Beam's many rickhouses and here is where their journey deviated.

Before we continue, let's summarize what we know of each. On the left, Jim Beam Distiller's Cut. Its label proclaims it is 100 proof, aged 5-6 years, and is non-chill filtered. On the right, Knob Creek Small Batch. Its label proclaims it is 100 proof, reveals no age statement, nor any filtration statement. In years past, Knob Creek Small Batch was labeled as 9 years old. Jim Beam have stated in both verbal and printed interviews that Knob Creek Small Batch is chill-filtered while the Single Barrel and special-edition versions of Knob Creek are not chill-filtered.

Both are 'batched' bourbons meaning that multiple barrels of bourbon are dumped and mingled to create what is ultimately bottled. There is no publicly available resource that tells us how many barrels comprise a 'small batch' at Jim Beam. I have read wildly variant speculation through the years that a batch of Knob Creek is comprised of 40 to 100 barrels. To date, there is no speculation regarding how many barrels comprise a batch of Distiller's Cut.

Up to this point, on paper, the Distiller's Cut is the clear winner simply because more of that whiskey's provenance is known thanks to the information printed on its label. Conversely, Knob Creek leaves much more to the speculative imagination. But things become complicated when we get to the final bit of information we can concretely state about each whiskey - their respective prices. Distiller's Cut retails for $18.99 while Knob Creek Small Batch retails for $27.99, nearly $10 more.

So if you are Jim Beam and you have two products that are nearly identical metric-wise, how do you ensure a 47% price difference is justified between the two? The answer, ignoring blind consumer loyalty, lies in the idea that Knob Creek Small Batch is comprised of quality aspects that are not disclosed on its label. Looking at the picture above, we know Distiller's Cut is 5-6 years old, yet the Knob Creek is noticeably darker. Because bourbon by law cannot be artificially colored, this leads us to the safe assumption that the Knob Creek contains older, perhaps even much older, whiskey than the Distiller's Cut.

In the glass, the differentiation continues. While the Distiller's Cut smells and tastes of a quintessential bourbon, tasting it alongside the Knob Creek is eye opening. Distiller's Cut smells of wood, char, and vanilla. Knob Creek smells of all the same but adds brown sugar, baking spices, and maple syrup. The finish of the Knob Creek yields that much more flavor lasting that much longer. Most surprisingly, the alcohol punch is noticeably less sharp in both smell and taste in the Knob Creek compared to the Distiller's Cut which again allows us to safely speculate that the whiskey comprising the Knob Creek spent more time in the barrel smoothing over its ethanol.

The cliched way to summarize the two is to claim the Knob Creek is more complex, has greater depth and character when compared to the Distiller's Cut. Of course, these differences are really only prevalent when you sip the two side by side. If I were to pour a glass of one to enjoy alone, I assure you, I would enjoy it just as much as the other.

And this brings us to the tasting panel. It is the job of the distillery's blenders and tasting panels to pick and blend the appropriate barrels to produce the appropriate product. Returning to where our two whiskeys deviated in their journey, being rolled into the rickhouse, we can really appreciate the task at hand for Jim Beam's team. They need to select and blend barrels that not only produce two exceptionally enjoyable bourbons, but have to do so while simultaneously creating expressions deserving and reflective of their respective price points. Oh and by the way, they need to accomplish this task year in and year out ensuring near-pefect consistency in the bottle despite potentially wildly variant whiskey in the originating barrels.

I am in constant awe at just how good a job the major distilleries do in this area. And this is a major reason why whiskey interests me so. While distillation is pure chemical engineering, maturation and blending are pure art; a perfect example of science and art working together in perfect yin and yang harmony to create and capture a magical genie in a bottle.

Wednesday, August 1, 2018

The Height of Summer

Could it be, could it be that you're joking with me and you don't really see you with me?

Tuesday, July 31, 2018

Month 7 - Pikesville Straight Rye Whiskey


Pikesville Straight Rye Whiskey
Classification: Straight Rye Whiskey
Country: United States of America
Region: Kentucky, Heaven Hill Distilleries: Louisville (Distillery): 38.2448, -85.7815, Bardstown (Maturation): 37.7948, -85.4661
Mash Bill: 51% Rye, 35% Corn, 14% Malted Barley
Strength: 55.0% ABV (110.0° Proof)
Color: Natural Color
Filtration: Unknown (Most likely Chill-Filtered)
Maturation: 6 years in 100% New Charred Oak
Price: $56.99 (Total Wine)

Overview

Why it had to be Rye in July! In addition to the linguistic flair of the phrase, what better whiskey to send during the month of America's Independence than what is widely considered to be the very first whiskey variant produced in the good ole US of A.

While bourbon, by law, contains at least 51% corn, rye whiskey must contain at least 51% rye. The rye percentage in rye whiskey varies a great deal across labels, some ryes even boast 95% rye content. For the best illustration of what rye brings to the whiskey experience, think about bread. Specifically, think about the experience of smelling and tasting cornbread and now think about smelling and tasting a slice of rye bread. Rye brings a pungent spicy punch that can be polarizing to some when featured on its own. In moderation however, rye, like a well placed splash of hot sauce, can complement a corn whiskey wonderfully. It's no surprise that the vast majority of bourbon contains a percentage of rye, typically between 10 and 25 percent, but I digress, this month is not about bourbon, it's all about the rye.

From its earliest days, rye, both as a crop and as a whiskey, was a huge component of Maryland's history. Pikesville began life in the 1890's and quickly became known as *the* Maryland whiskey. Pikesville's label changed owners as well as producing distilleries a few times through the years, but one thing remained constant - it was always produced in Maryland. It was a cult-favorite for its bold taste, higher proof, and best of all, its bottom-shelf pricing. Sadly however, Maryland's rye industry began to falter in the 1960s. By the 1970s, Maryland's rye industry was practically extinct and in turn took its rye whiskey industry with it. The last barrel of Maryland-produced Pikesville Rye was filled in 1972 with the final bottlings occurring in the early 1980s.

In 1982, Kentucky's Heaven Hill Distilleries purchased the Pikesville label and resumed production of the fabled whiskey in their Bardstown, Kentucky distillery. The much-loved Maryland whiskey lived on in name, but was no longer produced in Maryland.

While bourbon's terrific resurgence began in the 1990s, rye whiskey was much slower to regain popular demand. It was said back then that major distilleries dedicated only one mash and still house production run of rye whiskey a year. That all began to change in the 2000s however as prohibition-era and 'Mad Men' era cocktails began to spread through bar culture with wild hipster-fueled abandon. Rye quite literally went from zero to hero in the span of a few months. Virtually all major distilleries radically expanded their rye production and portfolios, but Heaven Hill never lost faith in rye whiskey and was prepared to meet the new demand.

In addition to Pikesville, Heaven Hill also produces Rittenhouse Rye. What Pikesville represents to Maryland, Rittenhouse represents to Pennsylvania - a regionally iconic whiskey with nearly a century of brand-recognition pedigree that died when Pennsylvania's whiskey industry died in the 1970s. Also like Pikesville, Heaven Hill scooped up the Rittenhouse label in the 1980s.

Today, Heaven Hill separates their two rye whiskey offerings in both price and overall presentation. The mashbill, production specifications, and maturation barrels for both Pikesville and Rittenhouse are identical, but Rittenhouse is offered as a Bottled in Bond, 4-year, 100-proof whiskey while Pikesville is offered at a more upscale 6-year, 110-proof whiskey. The price difference is typically around $20 to $30 with Rittenhouse retailing in the $30 neighborhood and Pikesville in the gated community of $50(ish). Tasting each side by side, you can easily tell these two whiskeys are closely related brothers, but the extra two years and 5% more ABV do deliver a more interesting and powerful experience. Is Pikesville worth the price premium over its younger brother? That is an exercise left to the reader, but I will offer one opinion - a price premium is easily justified if your primary use-case is sipping neat or with a splash of water or ice. If a cocktail is the most probable final resting place for a rye whiskey in your cabinet, then no need to spend the extra cash.

Tasting Notes




Group Impressions

With Pikesville containing the legal-minimum amount of rye, it will be the most 'bourbony' of rye whiskeys. Reading through the impressions, most assumed Month 7 was indeed a bourbon but if you read closely, everyone noted classic rye hallmarks - spice, heat, punch - so well done to all, your noses and tongues did not betray you. Also Pikesville is the highest proof sample sent to date but no one was fooled with multiple comments regarding the proof punch and the slow, long legs in the glass; a tip of my hat to each of you!

A few contributors noted that Pikesville worked well in cocktails and indeed, that is for me the primary use of rye - poured into sazeracs, old fashioneds, and manhattans. Thanks to all for another fun month, we shall raise our glasses and toast Month 8!

Apollo
This one was notable right off the bat because of its dark color and very long-lasting legs. After swirling it around in the glass, it seemed to basically just stick to the sides. Eventually, it dripped down but it took longer than any whiskey I've ever sampled.

Nothing in the aroma really jumped out at me. It smelled like whiskey, but it didn't singe my nose hairs or anything.

Upon sampling it, however, I noticed a very strong alcohol burn. So much so that I wondered if it might be a cask strength whiskey, which is something I've never sampled before. As far as the flavor, I had trouble picking out individual tastes, as usual. At one point I thought I detected a bit of butterscotch and possibly spice, but it wasn't clear enough to be certain.

Overall, I thought this was a fairly enjoyable whiskey. The added alcohol burn made it a little more challenging than most, but that's not a bad thing. I would definitely try this one again.

Jonathan Quayle Higgins
Appearance
Medium copper in the glass. Nice long, slow legs with tiny tears. You gotta love ‘Murican boldness in bottling their whiskey at high proofs.

Nose
Sweetness right off the bat. Rye and corn quickly follow the sweetness. Subsequent sniffs and cherry, cherry-vanilla, and Twizzlers come charging out. Amazing, as once you smell the cherry and twizzlers, its all I could smell. Great sweetness on the nose. Rye spice is present too. Dare I say a bit of wintergreen/spearmint. A bit of mustiness, very faint on the tail of the nose. The alcohol punch is well contained here, just a small amount of burn on the nose.

Taste
Let a out a Ric Flair WOOOOOO, there is epic spice here. Near zero sweetness up front, pure spice. At first this seems like a dry whiskey but sweetness comes after a few seconds and lasts from mid-taste all the way to the finish. What a wonderful sensation it is. The spice and rye dominate the first two-thirds of the taste but the cherry returns during the final one-third of the taste.

Neat this is drinkable to me. Yes there is an alcohol punch but not what I would consider harsh, certainly stout, but not harsh. A splash of water helps tame the alcohol.

Finish
Medium length finish. There is a rye bitterness on the finish for me. Some sweetness is present, but overall, I would say this finish is more dry than sweet. My grandmother loved rye bread. As a child, I hated rye bread, yet when staying with my grandmother while my parents were out on the town, I had to eat rye bread. The finish of this whiskey flashes me back to the aftertaste of that bread. Come to think about it, my grandmother also loved rye whiskey - she used to pour what had to be three fingers but in a mason jar, not a normal glass. She would toss in a cube of ice and that jar would get her through the night. I wonder what she would think of Pikesville - I bet she would like it but would be absolutely mortified at spending sixty bones on a bottle of hooch.

Overall
Hard to believe there is only 51% rye here, it certainly tastes as spicy as some 95% rye whiskeys I have had. Hard to believe it is 110 proof, it drinks far too easy considering the proof but water definitely helps the experience for me. Water tames the alcohol punch and opens up a bit more of the sweet notes on both the nose and tongue. This whiskey smells fantastic and tastes very good. If assigning letter grades, the nose gets an ‘A’ while the taste gets a solid ‘B’. I doubt I would always ensure a bottle of Pikesville was on my shelf, but I also don’t see myself reaching for this more than a few times a year.

Waldo Norris
Well, I can honestly say you have me stumped on this one.

Nose: The smells from this sample show a ton of vanilla and honey, with some dark fruit. Also picking up on creme brulee smells.

Color: Medium gold

Palate: After two full glasses, on two separate occasions, I am getting some immediate flavors. Very subtle, but it is so instantly shot by the incredible amount of spice. Perhaps a very light oak to start and some dried fruits... but it certainly doesn't linger long. After the initial spice, there is a good amount of heat the follows.

Finish: Strong, and incredibly long. I think i'm still tasting this one about 10 minutes after I finished the glass. The spice over time of course goes away, and the mouth is left with a dry, light oak taste.

Overall: There just wasn't a ton of character on this one. It had heat, it had spice, the nose was quite sweet and pleasant. After that, I just felt like the only thing that stood out in the end with it was the spice. I think I could have paired this well with some vermouth and some bitters and made a very nice mixed drink, but on its own, not for me.

Zeus
Appearance: Dark amber. Very long legs. Persistent legs at that, more so then most samples.

Smell: Very pleasant bourbon like rich woody smell. Smells like a winner so far. Woody smell reminds me of smoked fruit woods from BBQing, but then again I was BBQing meats this weekend with fruit woods so I'm not coming into this clean.

Taste: Son of a nutcracker! This must be very high proof, I was totally unprepared for a harsh burning sensation on initial taste. I was expecting a smooth whiskey based on the smell but it utterly flanked me and smacked me on the back of my head. I didn’t taste much at the first sip. Further sips were far more pleasant and enjoyable. Woody taste that I smelled came through later on, but it was very subtle.

Finish: Very good burn going down. Woody taste lingers for 10ish seconds but as I got more used to it the burn sensation faded and I was left with the nice woody aftertaste.

General Thoughts: This is not an amateur whiskey. Totally took me by surprise at my first sip, but I started to enjoy it on the further tastings. The taste was not extremely complex, which was a total surprise based on my expectations from the smell. I think it’s a bourbon, reminds me of a higher proof Old Forester bourbon that I got.

Keoki
For our July offering we had a bourbon that was not for the faint of heart.

The bourbon looked to be the darkest sample we've had so far. Dark amber is the closest I can say.
I got a lot of sweet notes -- a little maple syrup, a lot of vanilla. One thing that hit me was the alcohol. It really smelled potent!

The sample had good legs on the glass.

I took it neat, as always. My nose didn't deceive me this time. It tasted really strong to me. If I were offered this, it would definitely need to be a sipping bourbon. It's funny how the palate works. I can taste the same alcohol percentage in Scotch and not bat an eye, but if it's a different type of alcohol, it's hard to handle.

I didn't get the harsh taste that some cheap bourbons give you -- you know, the stuff you used to mix with soda in college. It just tasted strong.

Not sure if I'd buy this offering. It may work well for mixed drinks, but if I wanted to drink bourbon straight I'd go with a smoother choice.

Admiral Hawkes
OK, this one kind of threw me off a bit. When I opened the box and saw the dark brown color, my mind went to another double-faced or sherry barreled whiskey.  I opened the cap, and my spider sense said we were due for a rye whiskey. But the nose seemed to say bourbon to me. I take pride in my olfactory sense, but this one made me doubt I had it right. Were those corn notes I detected? It sure didn’t feel like rye. Hmmmm.

I moved straight to the neat pour. This one felt quite hot to me, and I did not really like the mouth feel of it. I routinely gulp 100 proof Knob Creek, and don’t feel the heat from that like this baby delivered. The heat made it tougher for me to detect taste notes. I really wanted to figure out what drove the dark color, but could not. I plopped an ice cube in and felt some aromas release, but just could not put a word on it. Strange.

My next taste was a healthy pour as part of a Manhattan. The vermouth and bitters definitely took the heat off, and I would say I enjoyed it much more in a cocktail. I started to wonder if this was perhaps a wheated whiskey, something I have not tasted before… perhaps that was what threw me. But I would not bet on it.

This was my least favorite dram of the bunch so far. Definitely worthy as the base for a whiskey cocktail at the right price, but not something I would enjoy straight.

Michael Doheny
These foolish things remind me of you.

House rules are as follows, first sample, straight. Second sample, splash of water to keep you honest, and lastly on the rocks, as God intended.

Sing Hallelujah, come on, get happy I was jazzed to receive this month’s sample. As soon I liberated the libation for its cardboard sarcophagus the color struck me as familiar as red on the roulette wheel. That was the perfect shade of God’s own nectar, Bourbon. I broke out a bottle of Elijah Craig for a side by side, and like two showgirls, you could barely tell them apart. Bea-u-ti-ful.

Cracked the seal and it sure smells like good american Bourbon. This is why we fight those dirty commies, for the god given right to let great institutions like this to exist. Freedom condensed into a Glencarin glass.

Throwing caution through the wind, I took a hearty bolt of the corn mashed masterpiece. The rich warmth scoured the inferior liquids from my mouth and settled into a warm bath full of subtle vanilla lotions and that echo of chard oak. I closed my eyes, swallowed deeply and let the vapors escape from my mouth. I tried the second sip with a little more tenderness. (Hey, I think I’ve heard that someplace before.) It was wonderfully balanced, letting the mature sweetness melt into my taste buds as the heat ebbed.  The flavor lingered, like a couple who don’t want the dance to end. It held that strong caramel color all the way to the last drops. Should I confess I love you?

The water from sample two took a little starch out of the smell of the drink and eroded a bit of the lovely color. The flavors were relaxed and opened, but this time the sweet was scorched from my tongue from the heat. Totally the opposite of drinking it straight. The hits of oak or wood aren’t there and the drink seemed more mellow, like drowsy morning sunlight. This was too easy to sip and before too long it was gone; now I'm alone with only a memory of that happiness.

Last came the ice, and just seein’ those cube there, I wink to nobody but the open mouth of the glass and whisper, “who loves ya, baby?” I pour the last precious ounces, and now drops, over the ice and watch the reaction. The water is soiling the once vibrant color, pulling the richness from it, until it is just off color gold. I put my lips to the glass and could feel those icy fingers up and down my spine. Brother, this did not mix well, it was like bottom shelf something that they’d serve to the rubes at Jilly’s in the wee hours of the day. I gave it the ol’ Dean Martin swirl with my finger and sipped again. The balance was back, much like the water round there was a subtleness to everything, the heat curtailed, the vanilla just a whisper. God help me for saying this, but it was better straight.

I think this is bourbon, ain’t no doubt in this foolish heart of mine. It will be as delicious tomorrow as a hundred years from today. Sweet surrender, You came, you saw, you conquered me and, I can't break away I must have you everyday.

Carol Baldwin
Appearance: Deep amber color, slow to develop legs

Smell:
At the top, caramel, butterscotch and vanilla. Wood, and then sharp alcohol deeper in the glass. Smells like a bourbon.

Taste:
Vanilla, caramel, and a sharp alcohol burn that lingers

Finish:
Bitter and astringent, with the warming sensation from the alcohol.

General Thoughts:
I enjoyed this bourbon. Nothing too surprising, it has the expected bourbon flavors; however the astringent alcohol finish does lead me to believe that this month's pick has a higher alcohol content than some of the others we have sampled.

Saturday, July 14, 2018

Glasses, Glasses, Glasses

(Left to Right) Tribeca Whiskey, Norlan Glass, Belgian Taster, Sipping Snifter, Port Glass, Glencairn

Do I ever love glassware. My much better half often pokes good-natured fun at my ballooning collection and frequent clearing out of yesterday's old and crusty glassware in the cabinet to make room for today's new hotness. The majority of the whiskey I enjoy, I enjoy neat whose only modification is perhaps a splash of water. As such, of paramount importance to me is how well the glass conveys the whiskey's smell. How the glass feels in hand as well as how the glass sips, while also quite important, take a backseat to the glass's nosing aptitude.

Shown above are the current favorites in the cabinet. From left to right, they are ordered least-favorite to most-favorite. Let's dive into what works and doesn't work for each of them and remember, these glasses are suited for neat or with a splash of water, I don't believe ice would work in any save the Tribeca.

#6 - Tribeca Whiskey Glass
Cost: $18.95 for four ($4.74 each)
While this glass looks terrific, an old-school European grandmother's house vibe, I have never had a great nosing experience with this glass. Perhaps it is the flared out lip rather than a tapered-in or straight lip. In the hand it feels hefty and robust, the bottom of the bowl feels great in the palm. The spirit's appearance really shines in this glass and it is a favorite among guests at our table so not all is lost. It is a favorite glass when sitting down to enjoy a whiskey that I have no intent to analyze; never underestimate the beauty of those turn-your-brain-off moments in life.

#5 - Norlan Glass
Cost: $48.00 for two ($24.00 each)
The most expensive glass on the shelf! The Norlan Glass started as a Kickstarter campaign back in 2015. I don't recall the campaign's initial financial goal, I believe it was $75,000, but the glass generated tremendous interest on the Web. Ultimately over 10,000 backers contributed over $800,000 and a legend was born. Not only was I not part of the Kickstarter campaign, I openly mocked and rejected the glass as a pure gouge-tastic gimmick. Years went by, the whiskey blogs I follow posted review after review and yet I maintained the resistance. Then one night some barrel proof bourbon temporarily altered my mind, transforming my fist in the air into a fist handing a credit card to Amazon.

The glass is a visual wonder - an inner-glass that is vacuum sealed within an outer glass shell. When you first pick up a Norlan Glass, it feels as though it is made of plastic, warm to the touch and extremely light, but it is 100% glass. And here is my first nit with this glass - it is too light for my preferences; I wish it had a bit more heft in hand. The glass noses well, but it does dissipate the ethanol quickly, perhaps a bit too quickly for lower proof whiskies. I have also noticed that when you near the completion of your dram, the strength of the nose drops sharply, perhaps due to the overly proactive ethanol dissipation of the glass. When sipping, the lip is fatter and tapered outward more than I would like, it makes for an odd sensation on the lips and tongue. All that being said, it is a beautiful glass that noses and sips well, but not mind-blowingly well. And there is the rub, I personally feel that if the wallet is blown then so too should the mind, even if to a lesser degree. <meekishly raises fist back in the air>

#4 - Belgian Taster
Cost: $1.95 each
From the most expensive to the least expensive. These caught my eye while perusing the ample glassware selection at the local Crate & Barrel store. It would be fair to think my Belgian ancestry is what drew me to these, but alas that is merely a happy coincidence. While amassing justification for my Norlan Glass resistance, one reddit commentator dismissed the Norlan insisting all you need is a 'Belgian tasting glass'. That comment stuck in my brain and jolted free upon seeing the shelf-label for these glasses in the store.

The glass has a great heft, but the stem is just a bit too short for me. Another nit is the thickness of the glass, including at the lip; it is just a wee bit too bulky overall. On the upside though, the glass noses quite well, aromas remain bright and vibrant throughout the dram. The best aspect of this glass however is the taper from the bowl to the lip which provides a natural and comfortable cue to your lower lip that it is properly placed for the impending sip. Perhaps the glass is appropriately named as its tasting prowess slightly edges out its nosing prowess.

#3 - Sipping Snifter
Cost: $6.95 each
Also from Crate & Barrel comes the most recent acquisition to the shelf and what a refined, elegant addition it is. This glass is the Niles Crane to the Belgian Taster's Martin Crane. It is as though the same mass of glass was used to produce this glass as the shorter Belgian Taster. Everything is thinner, more delicate, and more graceful. The stem height is perfect for a three finger index-middle-thumb grasp. The weight of the glass is spot-on. It noses fantastically well from the first sip to the last, and it is one of the few glasses on this list whose opening is wide enough to allow your nose to continue to smell the whiskey as you sip. As for sipping, well for me, sipping from such a seductively thin lip of glass oozes sophistication and class. This is the glass I will reach for when I need to be reminded that humanity is still capable of producing beauty.

#2 - Port Glass
Cost: $21.00 for four ($5.25 each)
The workhorse of the cabinet which is why it is sitting one notch above the beloved Sipping Snifter. I know, if the Sipping Snifter is so awesome, why not use it every night? Well for the same reason you don't have a black tie evening every night - it makes it that much more special when you do indulge. The port glass found its way into my life a few years ago when Disney gifted annual passholders port glasses if they made three visits to EPCOT's Food & Wine festival. On a whim, after sitting unused on our shelf for months, I poured a dram of single malt and was genuinely impressed with how the glass complimented the whiskey experience. The stem is tall enough to allow as much pinch-twisting and swirling that your heart desires. The tapering from the bowl to the lip consistently delivers a strong nose, regardless of how much spirit is in the glass. Sipping is straightforward and effortless as the tall stem affords ample and effortless tilting leverage. This is the perfect Tuesday-night whiskey glass.

#1 - Glencairn
Cost: $25.00 for four ($6.25 each)
All hail the king. There is a reason the Glencairn is easily the most recognizable whiskey glass on the planet - it delivers every aspect of the whiskey experience fantastically well to all senses. My first serious bottle of whiskey was Highland Park 15 year. A day after purchasing the malt, I ordered a set of Glencairns from Amazon. Despite being the oldest style glass on my shelf, it has proven its dominance and staying power week in and week out. The indentation between the base and bowl provides a natural, comfortable, and intuitive point that can either be cupped or grasped. The nose is delivered with near-perfect consistency as is the volume of each sip. No matter what shiny new glassware trend finds its way onto my shelf, the Glencairn remains steadfast and sure and I suspect that will remain true for the remainder of my whiskey life.

Thursday, July 5, 2018