Group Taste-off No. 14!

After a two year sabbatical (and what a couple of years they were), the band has reunited for yet another group tasting. This time around, two mystery whiskeys were sent out, one labeled as 'Green' and the other as 'Yellow'. The standard instructions for this tasting were augmented with the following additions: describe how these two whiskeys directly compared to each other, did each taster prefer one over the other, and lastly, would the taster purchase a bottle of either with their own hard-earned.

Unsurprisingly, the two whiskeys sent out were indeed closely related to each another and the group's whiskey-spidey-senses were all over it. But before we get to the group's impressions, let's remove the cloak of mystery and reveal our two whiskeys. Both Kentucky straight bourbons hailing from Brown-Forman's Old Forester distillery in Shively, Kentucky.

Whiskey 'Green':

Old Forester 1910 Old Fine Whisky
Classification: Kentucky Straight Bourbon
Country: United States of America
Region: Kentucky (Shively: 38.242N, -85.817W)
Mash Bill: 72% Corn, 18% Rye, and 10% Malted Barley
Strength: 46.5% ABV (93.0° Proof)
Color: Natural Color
Filtration: Unknown (most likely non-chill filtered)
Maturation: Unknown duration in new charred American oak followed by unknown duration in a new, heavily charred American oak barrel
Price: $54.99 (ABC Fine Wine & Spirits)

 

Whiskey 'Yellow':

Old Forester 1920 Prohibition Style
Classification: Kentucky Straight Bourbon
Country: United States of America
Region: Kentucky (Shively: 38.242N, -85.817W)
Mash Bill: 72% Corn, 18% Rye, and 10% Malted Barley
Strength: 57.5% ABV (115.0° Proof)
Color: Natural Color
Filtration: Unknown (most likely non-chill filtered)
Maturation: Unknown duration in new charred American oak
Price: $59.99 (ABC Fine Wine & Spirits)

 

Established in 1870 by George Garvin Brown, as in the Brown of today's beverage giant Brown-Forman, Old Forester bourbon has been offered without interruption in the United States since its debut. It is the longest continually offered bourbon available today. By comparison, both 1910 and 1920 are but wee pups when plotted on Old Forester's historical chronology. While junior in terms of brand tenure, both 1910 and 1920 are members of Old Forester's Whiskey Row series which debuted in 2014. 1920 Prohibition Style joined the series in 2016, accompanying the 1870 Original Batch and the 1897 Bottled in Bond entries. Two years later in 2018, the 1910 Old Fine Whisky completed the series and all four are year-round standard offerings from Old Forester. One pedantic note: while unusual in American whiskey, Old Forester, like Maker's Mark, label their whiskey as 'whisky' in a nod to the Scottish ancestry found in the respective families of each product's founder.

 

Each of the four entries in the series is accompanied by a story explaining the historical significance of the respective product in Old Forester's lineup. The 1920 version celebrates the fact that the Old Forester distillery was one of only six distilleries permitted to remain in operation during the dark, dark days of Prohibition in the United States. Old Forester states during this period, whiskey was barreled at 50% ABV which would rise during the years of maturation as water evaporated from the barrels. The final result after maturation was a whiskey whose ABV was in the 57% range. Hence, the 1920 offering, labeled as a 'Prohibition Style' of Old Forester, is bottled at 57.5% ABV.

 

The 1910 offering has a similarly compelling story. According to Brown-Forman, on October 22, 1910, a fire on the bottling line halted production of Old Forester. Mature whisky that was in vats on the bottling line had to evacuated and was quickly transferred to secondary barrels and rolled to safety. When the rescued whiskey was eventually bottled, its taste was distinct enough to merit being bottled under a brand new label from Old Forester - Old Fine Whisky, making it the first official bottling of a double-cask matured bourbon.

 

Today's 1910 offering pays tribute to this history by taking standard Old Forester, proofing it down to 50% ABV, and transferring to a second heavily charred American oak barrel. Brown-Forman states that the second barrel used in 1910’s production is by far the heaviest char they have ever applied to a barrel. A standard Old Forester barrel receives ~22 seconds of flame exposure whereas the secondary barrels used in 1910’s production receive ~50 seconds. The folks at Old Forester have said in interviews that 1910's second barrel is charred almost to the point of incineration.

 

Coincidentally, Brown-Forman produce another whiskey that has very similar characteristics to 1910: Woodford Reserve Double Oaked. Like 1910, Woodford's Double Oaked begins life as a standard offering from its respective distillery that is then transferred to a new second barrel for a period of time. There are a few differences however. For starters, Woodford Reserve bourbon is actually a blend of pot-distilled whiskey produced at the Woodford Reserve distillery and column-distilled whiskey produced at the Old Forester distillery. Also, unlike the heavily charred barrel of 1910, Woodford's Double Oaked is transferred to a heavily toasted, but not charred second barrel.

While neither 1910 or 1920 disclose any age statements, there is some scuttlebutt and speculation guessing at each whiskey's age. It is believed that 1910 is a standard 4-year old Old Forester that is proofed down to 50% ABV and then spends 6-9 months in that heavily charred second barrel. The 1920 by comparison is thought to be a bit older, but not by much with speculation placing its age in the 5 to 6 year range. Both products are produced from Brown-Forman's standard bourbon recipe which is also used at Woodford Reserve, though as stated above, Old Forester is 100% column-distilled whiskey whereas Woodford Reserve is a blend of pot-distilled and column-distilled whiskey.

Official Tasting Notes

Old Forester 1910 Old Fine Whisky (courtesy of Old Forester)

 

 

Old Forester 1920 Prohibition Style (courtesy of Old Forester)

 

Group Impressions

I've long envisioned this tasting as I've always been intrigued by the effect maturation has on whiskey. To me, a whiskey's lifecycle can be divided into two phases. The first phase, progression from grain to beer to distillate, is pure chemical engineering. Highly consistent results can be obtained in this phase by the application of sound, thorough procedures and processes. The second phase, progression from freshly distilled ethanol to mature bottled whiskey, is just as much art as it is science. No two barrels are alike nor do they influence a whiskey in an identical manner. Factor in different barrel types and different locations where those barrels are stored and you have the potential for wildly diverse results in matured whiskey.

In this tasting, we have two whiskeys that are subjected to identical production techniques up until the point the Old Forester 1910 is transferred to a second charred oak barrel. How does this seemingly simple deviation change the end product? Significantly it turns out, but not so profoundly that it overwhelms the whiskey's foundational roots. As for the group's overall impressions, many immediately recognized both were bourbons, particularly a bourbon with a strong rye component. So pronounced was the rye, that a few tasters even theorized they were dealing with a rye whiskey. Impressively, some in the group displayed their keen senses speculating both whiskeys shared the same mash-bill and possibly hailed from the same distillery.

 

In regard to personal preferences, Green (Old Forester 1910) received 5 votes to Yellow's (Old Forester 1920) 3 votes making Old Forester 1910 the preferred whiskey in this tasting. It is worth noting however that two of the tasters, while willing to pick a preference, also stated that they would not purchase either for their home shelf.

 

Great stuff all around, and a special nod of appreciation to those who mixed some of their mystery whiskey into a libation and reported back!

Admiral Hawkes
Upon receiving these bottles I immediately held them both up to the light and observed that they had the exact same color.  Hmmmm... were we dealing with different treatments of the same mash bill? Then I opened each and had a sniff. They seemed to have the same aroma as well. I ruled out scotch but could not discern what type of whiskey we were dealing with. That had to wait.

I drank each of them neat twice.

Mr Green, in the kitchen, with a highball glass: The nose on this was quite different in the glass than it was confined in the small bottle. I kept thinking orange fruit, and settled on apricot as the dominant note. I knocked back the first taste, and noted a pretty good alcohol burn and a delightful finish. The note I wrote was, "not sure what it is, but I like it". I kept asking myself what I was tasting and thought maybe that this one was aged in a charred cask. As the glass was emptied, the aromatic notes intensified, presumably from the remnants on the side and bottom of the glass. If I were to bet, I'd say this whiskey was a rye, or had a good amount of rye in the mash bill. Liked it, and have enough left for a Manhattan, which may happen this evening.

Colonel Mustard, in the Conservatory, with a Candlestick: The yellow labeled sample confounded me. I had ruled out scotch from the sniff test, but this one had the mouth feel of a scotch to me. It was nutty on the nose, perhaps almonds were suggested. It has less of an alcohol burn than Mr. Green, and had a lightness to it that made it an enjoyable drink. If I were to guess on this one, I'd probably swerve and say Irish Whiskey based upon its Scotch-like character which I just couldn't dodge. The remnants of this one will go in a cup of coffee when I feel so inclined. If I am wrong, who cares? It is still kicked-up coffee (no whipped cream, please)!

Both were nice, and if I had to choose my taste leans toward Mr. Green.

Apollo
For this review I started with the green one. The color was a nice amber, on the dark side. It smelled strongly of alcohol and some spice and sweetness. I found it to be pretty harsh on the tongue, which led me to believe that this might be a higher proof whiskey than most. Honestly, I didn’t much care for this one. It was too sweet for me, which leads me to believe that it’s a bourbon. I didn’t care for the alcohol burn but when I tried it with an ice cube, that just brought out the sweetness even more.

The yellow one one was next. That seemed a little better to me. It was almost exactly the same color as the first one. The smell was a bit more gentle but it still had a sweetness to it. The taste confirmed the smell. It didn’t have as much burn as the green one but it was still too sweet for me.

Personally, I don’t think I’d buy a bottle of either one, but I’m not a big bourbon fan (I do enjoy bourbon-based cocktails, but if I’m drinking whiskey it’s normally scotch). I did prefer the yellow one to the green, though, since it was smoother. I got the impression that these were both bourbons and that the green one was probably higher proof or less mature.

Bottom line, I thought yellow was better than green. But they both get a pass from me.

Francis 'Icepick' Hofstetler
Yellow Label
My first impression was that this whiskey had a high alcohol content. Upfront it had a sweet taste, and I thought I tasted vanilla. The finish was more boozy. I tried the whiskey neat, but my larger pour was over a large ice ball. This is how I tend to drink any whiskey.

There wasn't anything I disliked about the whiskey. However, I tend to prefer whiskey's that are in the 40% alcohol range, and this seemed higher than that.

Based on the sweetness, I think this is bourbon. Possibly Colonel Taylor Small Batch.

Green Label
Like the Yellow Label one, this whiskey also had a high alcohol content. I didn't find this whiskey as sweet as the Yellow one, and it wasn't quite as smooth. It seemed more middle of the road. Not sweet and not too smokey either in taste or smell. I do think it is an American Whiskey, so I'm guessing it was a Rye. I drank this over an ice ball.

I preferred the Yellow Label, but I don't think I would purchase either due to what I deemed the high alcohol content. I simply find them a bit too harsh on my stomach, frankly.

 

Jonathan Quayle Higgins
Green: 1910
Smell: Wood resin, nail polish remover, medium charred oak. The addition of water eliminates the nail polish remover vibe. Cigar humidor

Taste: Faint fruit, sawdust, gentle alcohol, gentle brown sugar, near-immediate tannin sensation (drying). The addition of water brings out more wood.

Finish: Medium-length, sawdust, very gentle sweetness.

Yellow: 1920
Smell: Chocolate coated cherries, brown sugar, distant barrel char, vanilla, medium-light ethanol

Taste: Stronger alcohol, mint, strong fruit sugar, gentle wood, cinnamon candy

Finish: Oak, leather, vanilla, brown sugar, ethanol, cool mint, fermented corn mash. Long length.

General Notes

• Green is a touch darker than Yellow
• Both have an inherent sweetness on the nose.
• Green smells, tastes, and finishes drier and less sweet than Yellow
• Yellow is fruit, Green is wood.
• Neither is crap whiskey, the ethanol is well controlled in both and neither has any wood astringency. Both could be considered sippin’ whiskeys
• Yellow has a longer finish than Green but Yellow’s finish is much punchier with the ethanol
• Green aged well - the longer it sat in the glass, the more I enjoyed it. Yellow did not evolve as much, its experience stayed consistent, but green morphed and improved the longer it sat.
• Time in the glass plus water is Green’s best friend
• Green lacked the length of finish, but did have more complexity than yellow

Would I purchase either bottle? Yes, 1910 for sipping and 1920 for cocktails
Did I prefer one over the other? I’d say 1910 simply for how well it evolved in the glass with time

Waldo Norris
First impressions when I poured these 2 samples neat were on the noser. Both came out sweet, heavy vanilla, yellow had a slightly more spicy note to it than the green bottle. Green almost smelled like a candy corn. These 2 glasses however are incredibly similar in smell and while I am no connoisseur of smelly things, despite my years of trying to smell what those sommeliers of wine could smell, my nose is not good enough to pick up on the differences between these aside from the yellow bottle having slightly earthiness to it.

My first pour was neat, and this is where I picked up on the differences between these two... although still amazing is how different and similar they are. The Yellow was spicier, coated the tongue nicely and had a good amount of heat that stuck around for a good many seconds after. The green bottle is smoother, has almost no burn aside from a subtle amount on my lips. The green bottle despite it being spicy was a bit grassier and the yellow bottle had maybe a little orange peel type of feel to it.All that said again, had it not been for the difference between the spice differences between these 2 pours, they are super similar.

Mixed drink time! I decided to make 2 small, but enjoyable manhattans. Nothing fancy, and I avoided the sugar (ya know, to be healthier) and went with a lemon spritz and peel. The Yellow bottle had a nicer balance with the drink and I could pick up on the spice a little more than the green bottle. Both are quite enjoyable, but if I were to pick, I would go with the yellow bottle over the green. I just tend to want the whisky to stand out unless I am going for something very sweet.

I very much think we have a Rye in the Yellow bottle and a Bourbon in the Green.  

Because I am currently in more of a mixed drink phase lately, I would likely choose the yellow bottle over the green bottle.  I simply enjoyed the drink more. If I were going to drink neat or with an ice cube, I would enjoy the sweetness of the green more.

 I would say they came from the same distillery or even from the same label, but where's the fun in that.

Zeus
#1 Green
Appearance: Dark amber, looks like maple syrup

Smell: Slight sweet woody smell, reminds me of Woodford bourbon. Does smell maple like but it might be my subconscious throwing that in there due to the color.

Taste: Ohhh, much sweeter then I expected. Definitely a bourbon. Slight caramel taste. Is that maple? I think I taste maple. Damn you subconscious!

Finish: Slight bite a few seconds after sipping. Burn lasts way longer than a normal 80 proof, thinking it's 90 or 95 proof

General Thoughts: Very tasty! I'd like this as a base in a old fashion, which I promptly made into an old fashioned. It was as delicious as I had hoped for.

#2 Yellow
Appearance: Amber, slightly lighter than batch green

Smell: Whoa, much more burn in the smell than green. Not picking up much else other than my nostril hairs screaming at me

Taste: Holy moly, that seemed smoother than green on the initial taste. Another bourbon. Getting a more brown sugar taste out of yellow.

Finish: Burn does not last as long as green. Slight bitter taste that lingers.

General Thoughts: Pretty good!  I didn't like the finish  as much as green but it was very comparable.

How are these two whiskeys similar and/or dissimilar to each other?
Both are bourbons. Green is a bit darker. Green is sweeter, yellow is smoother. Maple notes always win with me. Some day they will perfect a whiskey that combines maple, butter, bacon, and waffles for a complete breakfast experience.

Did you like one more than the other?
Green would be my choice, but marginally so. The initial taste of yellow was better but green won on the finish. Might be less of a difference if they were in an old fashion.

Would you buy a bottle of either (or both or neither)?
Yes, either would be get Zeus's seal of approval.

Was one a clear-cut favorite or did you enjoy (or not enjoy) both fairly equally?
Only marginally like green better, enjoyed them both.

Carol Baldwin
#1 Green
Appearance: Dark caramel color

Smell: Sharp, sweet, slightly floral, green, caramel, alcohol.

Taste: Texture is smooth, somewhat viscous and rich. Taste is green and sharp, mellowing into warm caramel vanilla with an astringent finish.

Finish: Alcohol, astringent with a warming after-burn.

General Thoughts: This whiskey had an interesting evolution of flavors.  The sharpness seems to dominate on my palate, yet I keep sipping to get that progression from sharp green into warm vanilla caramel.

#2 Yellow
Appearance: Butterscotch caramel color

Smell: Slightly sharp alcohol, butterscotch caramel.

Taste: Smooth, rich toffee, butterscotch vanilla

Finish: Pleasantly smooth and rich, warm alcohol.

General Thoughts: Just a nice sipper all around. All of the flavors you expect with bourbon. I expect this would be nice in a cocktail as well.

How are these two whiskeys similar and/or dissimilar to each other? .
The Green labeled whiskey had a very pronounced sharpness and greenness to it (was this a hint regarding the contents?) with just a slight promise of mellow warm vanilla flavors. The finish was quite astringent. The Yellow labelled whiskey was noticeably more smooth on the palate, with pronounced warm vanilla flavors. The finish was smooth and warm.

Did you like one more than the other?
Yes, I prefer the Yellow labelled whiskey.

Would you buy a bottle of either (or both or neither)?
The Yellow!

Was one a clear-cut favorite or did you enjoy (or not enjoy) both fairly equally?
While the Green label was an interesting sip, I did prefer the Yellow overall.

Robin Masters
#1 Yellow   #2 Green

#1 has an orange-amber glow, is slightly more translucent and leaves a stationery ring of liquid behind at the crest of the swirl.

#2 is a slightly darker amber giving the impression it has either aged longer or been in a darker charred barrel. When swirled, it leaves a thicker coating of liquid behind producing a show of lazy cascading drops down the side of the glass. There is a slight bit more opaqueness to #2.

#1 starts out with smells of butterscotch, softer varnish, leading into ginger snap, grass, mint, verbena and finally into cinnamon red hot candy. There is a strong, sharp bite with a minty and buttery finish.

#2 starts out with a strongly sugary caramel smell and then shifts into coffee cake. A surprising strong wood varnish note overwhelms and fades into a recently blown out candle smoke. There is a softer bite, but a longer finish. Soft sweetness on the front end with a very delayed buttery end.

Both feel like a higher proof. Water was added after 3 sips. #1’s addition of water turned this one into a mean, and angry prickler. #2’s addition of water kept it nice, and a salt water taffy, salted dark caramel note surfaced. #2 is still leading in the sweetness category and the cascading drops show goes on completely unaffected by the water.

#1 is starting to turn more perfumy. #1 with water and time is starting to soften the sharp edges, and is getting smoother to drink, but still punchy. Vanilla.

#2 is mimicking characteristics of a high proof sherry whisky. Pile of aging autumn leaves. Banana. Sugary sweet finish. I would choose #2 if I had to pick between the two.

Redbreast Iberian Series: The PX Edition

Redbreast Iberian Series: The PX Edition
Classification: Single Pot Still Irish Whiskey
Country: Ireland
Region: County Cork (Midleton: 51.913°N 8.170°W)
Mash Bill: 100% Barley (mixture of malted and un-malted barley)
Strength: 46.0% ABV (92.0° Proof)
Color: Unknown (Internet speculation claims natural color)
Filtration: Unknown (Internet speculation claims non-chill filtered)
Maturation: No Age Statement (Internet speculation claims 8-10 years in ex-bourbon and ex-sherry then 12-22 months in Pedro Ximénez sherry hogshead casks)
Price: $104.99 (Total Wine)

Tl;dr summary - Another stunner from the folks at the New Midleton Distillery. While unique enough to justify its existence among other Redbreast offerings, this PX Edition of the Iberian Series to my tastes is most reminiscent of the fabled 12-year. The aroma of the whiskey steals the show, relegating the finish and taste to second and third place respectively. Honey, toasted macadamia nuts, vanilla latte, gentle white pepper, raisins, and ripe plum all make appearances at various points. Like the Lustau Edition, the sherry influence is elevated from the standard 12-year yet is understandably quite different thanks to the usage of Pedro Ximénez in this version. Safe to say this whiskey will be a regret-free purchase for fans of both Redbreast as well as Pedro Ximénez finished whiskeys.

What we have today is the second entry in Redbreast’s ‘Iberian Series’. The series was launched to pay homage to the various styles of sherry whose barrels are so treasured for their delicious influence on Redbreast’s Irish whiskey as it matures. Unlike the first entry in the series, the Lustau Edition which is now a permanent entry in Redbreast’s portfolio, this second entry, called the PX Edition as it utilizes Pedro Ximénez barrels, is meant to be a limited one-time release.

Like every limited release from Redbreast that has come before, I knew the odds would be against me when it came to procuring a bottle from a local retailer. Frustratingly, Redbreast availability in my area has been spotty for the past few years, especially for anything other than their standard 12-year offering. Imagine my delight when seven(ish) weeks ago while perusing a reputable online retailer’s inventory I was able to place an order for a bottle of the PX Edition. Being able to nab a limited release whiskey from an online retailer at MSRP is a tremendous stroke of luck and not a typical experience for me. As it turned out, things were indeed too good to be true. Two weeks after placing the order, I received a notification that fulfilling the order would take longer than anticipated due to the vague, yet common refrain of ‘supply chain issues’ and ‘COVID-related delays’. “Okay, a delay is no big deal” I thought, “after all, I am still getting the whiskey”. Two and half weeks after that, I received a second notification, this one telling me that my order was being canceled and refunded in full due to unforeseen issues on the retailer’s side. I was disappointed and a tad dejected as I presumed this was going to be one Redbreast I would not be able to try, but King Brian must have been looking out for me because a St. Patrick’s Day miracle was on the horizon.

On that most Irish of holidays, I stopped off at my local Total Wine not for whiskey, but to replenish a recently depleted bottle of Appleton Estate 8-year. As I made my way past the whiskey aisle en route to the rum aisle, I noticed, expectedly I suppose, that the Irish whiskey section had been dutifully well stocked. Imagine my delight when I saw the particular shelf housing the Redbreast offerings not only had a full complement of their standard products, but a complete row of the harder-to-find entries like the 21-year, the 27-year and yes, miraculously, this new PX Edition of their Iberian Series. How fitting to find this crock of single pot still Irish gold on St. Paddy’s day. Thanks King Brian, I am forever grateful.

Normally I collect my impressions and opinions of a given whiskey spread across numerous pours enjoyed through the better part of a month. That tradition was broken for this set of impressions, so giddy was I at my Irish good fortune that I felt compelled to post earlier than I normally would. Should my impressions of this whiskey change in the coming months, I’m sure an update will be posted. With that disclosure in mind, let’s get to sipping.

Nose
Roasted macadamia nuts, prune/raisin, faint fresh cut green grass, very slight ethanol, cinnamon spice, a smell that reminds me of a vanilla latte as well as a mocha latte.

Taste
Strong ethanol punch at first. A good bit more oak in the taste. Cinnamon, nutmeg, candied fruit (like that found in a fruit cake), gentle brown sugar. Definite sherry vibe, but a good sherry vibe consisting of raisins and currants.

Finish
Medium to medium-long in length. Oak, cinnamon, raisin, and gentle vanilla.

Overall
The nose steals the show here. Ranking the experience, it is Nose > Finish > Taste for me. I am not implying that the taste is disappointing or bad, it’s just not as special as the smell and finish for me. In fact, I think the taste of the 12-year Cask Strength is substantially more interesting than the taste of the PX Edition. The Pedro Ximénez influence is definitely noticeable and happily quite different from the Lustau sherry influence in the Lustau Edition. While this whiskey has no age statement, there is no doubt in my mind that it is aged for a sufficient period of time as there are no rough, prickly alcohol edges. The oak is pronounced, but controlled. The sherry influence is strong, but not dominant. My personal benchmark for Redbreast is their 12-year Cask Strength and while this PX Edition is similar, the extra boost of Pedro Ximénez diverts this whiskey into a different (and enjoyable) direction.

While enjoyable, this PX Edition does not top the 12-year Cask Strength to my tastes. While I think this whiskey is worthy of its asking price, I will not be seeking out a second bottle to squirrel away for a future zombie apocalypse. Enjoyable, but not as enjoyable to my tastes as the fruitier, grassier, and nuttier 12-year Cask Strength. Considering this whiskey’s MSRP is comparable (note: many retailers are tacking on ~$20 kickers), my biggest criticism is its price - it costs the same(ish) as a superior offering in Redbreast’s lineup. Ultimately, an enjoyable whiskey with no critical flaws, a whiskey that fans of Pedro Ximénez finished whisky should seek out, but for fans of the 12-year Cask Strength, it is not worthy of moving heaven and earth to procure. For those customers, should King Brian snap his fingers and a bottle spontaneously appears in your path, by all means scoop it up, otherwise don’t fret for a moment if you never encounter a bottle in the wild. Cheers to Redbreast - you folks produce an outstanding lineup of Irish whiskey, nary a dud in the bunch.

I Choo Choo Choose You!

I like you Clarence. Always have, always will.

 

While Valentine's Day may be nothing more than a corporate ploy to sell candy, cards, paternity tests, and jewelry, this year I've decided to take the holiday back from the faux love-spewing shills and send out real trinkets of affection. What better way to get the band back together than to send out my version of Valentine's Day cards for yet another round of blind whiskey tasting.

 

The same ground rules as before apply, but since this round features two different whiskeys, in addition to providing a brief set of impressions for each whiskey, there is an additional request of our tasters: send along thoughts of how these two whiskeys compare and contrast to one another. 

 

How are these two whiskeys similar and/or dissimilar to each other? 

 

Did you like one more than the other? 

 

Would you buy a bottle of either (or both or neither)? 

 

Was one a clear-cut favorite or did you enjoy (or not enjoy) both fairly equally?

Look for the reveal and group impressions in mid to late March. As always, thanks to everyone for playing along, it promises to be a grand time.

Mount Gay - The Port Cask Expression

Mount Gay Port Cask Expression (2020 Master Blender Collection)
Classification: Barbados Rum
Country: Barbados
Region: Saint Lucy (Mount Gay: 13.289N, -59.614W)
Mash Bill: 100% Molasses
Strength: 55.0% ABV (110.0° Proof)
Color: Natural Color
Filtration: Non-chill Filtered
Maturation: Column-distilled rum aged for 5 years in tawny port barrels. Pot-distilled rum aged for 14 years in ex-bourbon followed by 1 year in tawny port barrels
Price: $194.99 (Total Wine)

Tl;dr summary - An experience that redefined what I thought was possible from a rum. Expensive and limited, but also a milestone experience whose first pour I will remember for the rest of my days. One of the very few triple-digit priced spirits that I actually felt was worth more than the price paid. While a safe bet rum lovers will gush, those who are not super-fans of sipping rums should exercise caution as the spirit does not transcend the category and automatically convert any who taste into a rum lover.

Rum’s current status in the world of spirits is a perfect embodiment of the popular adage ‘a rising tide lifts all boats’. As whiskey’s popularity surged in the previous decade, fans of distilled grain inevitably began to seek out and sample other distilled spirits. Many found a second (or third) love in distilled molasses/sugar (rum), distilled fruit (brandy, Cognac, and Armagnac), or distilled plant (Tequila and Mezcal courtesy of the agave plant). While certain rum producers already embraced higher-end offerings (well aged rums, rums bottled at cask strength, etc.), the influx of whiskey fans scouring liquor store rum shelves resulted in a significant uptick in premium offerings from rum producers across the globe. One such offering is the topic of today’s post, but before we jump into that, allow a brief indulgence to delve into rum’s story, and what a story it is.

It is no exaggeration to say that the history of rum is inextricably tied to the history of the New World. Sugar cultivation quite literally shaped the Americas and Caribbean Islands while simultaneously generating empire-building levels of wealth. It will never be known who first distilled rum, theoretically any group that cultivated and refined sugar could very well lay claim to that accomplishment. The first documented reference to rum comes from a mid-1600s correspondence sent from the British colonists on the island of Barbados back to England describing a drink called “Kill-Devil”: “a sugar cane distilled, hot, hellish, and terrible liquor (…), made of the skimmings of the Coopers that boil the sugar.” Further, a deed recorded in 1703 for a parcel of land on Barbados lists “two stone windmills (…). One boiling house with seven coppers, one curing house, and one still house.” Neither is conclusive proof that rum originated on Barbados but it is the earliest documented mention of rum thus far found and Barbados ran with the distinction proclaiming itself as the birthplace of rum. Oh and that deed mentioned above is for the precise chunk of Barbados that the Mount Gay distillery sits on, leading Mount Gay to proclaim itself as the oldest rum distillery in the world.

Putting aside the debate over absolute historical accuracy, what is beyond dispute is the fact that Mount Gay produces outstanding rums. So outstanding in fact that when submitted for approval alongside the rums from a second Barbadian distillery, Foursquare, the rums of Barbados are recognized the world round as a genre-defining benchmark of excellence. While some might debate Barbados’s claim in originating rum, few dare to dispute that some of the finest rums produced in the world emanate from that humble island on the eastern edge of the Lesser Antilles.

All of Mount Gay’s rums begin life as fermented molasses derived from sugar cane harvested in the Carribean, including cane raised on the island of Barbados itself. Mount Gay utilizes two fermentation styles - a closed fermentation using a cultivated yeast and an open fermentation where only the wild yeast present in the atmosphere at the distillery carries out the fermentation duties. The closed fermentation mash is distilled in a column still whereas the open fermentation mash heads to a pot still. Once maturation is complete, Mount Gay blends the column-distilled rum with the pot-distilled rum for the desired product. Speaking of maturation, Mount Gay predominately matures their rum in ex-bourbon casks, but sometimes, as in the case of today’s rum, other cask types are utilized which brings us back to the notion of rum producers offering higher-end products to entice wandering whiskey eyes.

Beginning in 2018, Mount Gay debuted their Master Blender Collection. An annual release of premium expressions of Mount Gay rum that are viewed as pet projects/experiments of the distillery’s master blender. Introduced by Allen Smith and continued today by Trudiann Branker, 2020’s installment of the collection focuses on port casks. Specifically, the accurately named Port Cask Expression features two varieties of rum: column-distilled rum that was aged for 5 years in tawny port casks and pot-distilled rum that was aged for 14 years in American whiskey casks and finished in tawny port casks for 1 year.

I was no stranger to premium rum offerings by the time the Port Cask Expression appeared on my retailer’s shelf. For years my much better half and I have enjoyed the installments of Foursquare’s Exceptional Cask Series, especially those that utilized ex-wine barrel finishing. Further, some of my favorite whiskeys are those that have been partially matured in ex-port barrels, so when I saw the crimson red box of the Mount Gay Port Cask Expression, my interest was immediately piqued. This was not an automatic purchase however. With an asking price flirting with $200, the Port Cask Expression is priced on the high-end of comparable Scotch Single Malts, but perhaps more eye-opening is that Foursquare’s premium offerings typically cost half as much. It took a little over a week to convince myself to take the plunge. Ultimately it was Mount Gay’s reputation combined with the strong port influence and complete transparency in regard to age, bottling strength, and filtration that justified the purchase in my mind.

It was a late Saturday afternoon last summer when I had my first pour of this rum. My expectations were high, but a tinge of doubt crept across my mind as I was removing the shrink-wrap capsule - ‘how can a rum be worth $200 … there’s going to be some disappointment …’. Anticipation quickly replaced doubt however as wave after wave of aroma wafted up from the glass as it was sitting on the counter. Despite my nose being a good distance from the glass, I was being bombarded by vanilla, caramel, raisin, and almonds. To date, only Islay’s peated single malts have delivered such a pronounced aroma upon pouring. My first few sips were overwhelmed by the rum’s high proof, the ethanol washing over my mouth like camera flashes on a gala’s red carpet. Time and water helped tame the ethanol, and once dialed in the rum delivered a near-endless parade of dense, viscous flavors. There are very few spirits I’ve enjoyed that have delivered such a profound experience - the flavors linger so long that the smell, taste and finish seemingly combine into one unified event. By my fourth or so sip, I simply held the glass at eye-level, slightly tilted, and just stared at the remaining liquid for several minutes in absolute awe.

Nose
Molasses, vanilla, almonds roasting in the oven, raisins

Taste
Oak, pepper spice, oily molasses, dark chocolate, prunes/raisins, faint dried cherry. A mouth-coating, ‘greasy’ texture (meant in a positive connotation). For me, the addition of water is mandatory. You can certainly sip the rum at 55% ABV, but the ethanol overwhelms quite a bit of the flavor. My personal sweet-spot was in the 45% (ish) ABV range.

Finish
Oak, pepper spice, port/raisins, molasses and brown sugar. A long finish that lingers with the oak and pepper spice lasting the longest. A hallmark of Barbadian rum is its heavy use of former American whiskey barrels for maturation. American whiskey barrels will deliver a wallop of influence during aging - vanilla, charred oak, brown sugar that all influence the rum itself. Other styles of rum use less potent barrels, but in Barbados, expect a strong American oak influence in their aged rums.

Overall
A masterpiece of a spirit. I am astonished at how beautifully this spirit weaves together the molasses-based rum and the large influence of port. Like gracefully clasping one’s hands together with fingers interleaving each other, the rum and port seamlessly converge and propel this rum to a special place. A rare occurrence where the sum is greater than its parts. This rum’s lofty asking price was a point of fixation and concern entering the experience, but within a few sips I began to feel as though Mount Gay had undercharged for the experience.

In all honesty, penning such an enthusiastically glowing writeup for this rum has created a nagging sense of self-conscious objective guilt in my mind. While I have zero critiques of this rum, I feel there are caveats that must be disclosed on the off-chance anyone reading this feels compelled to plunk down their own hard-earned and procure a bottle of their own. First caveat - this is a rum first, there is never any doubt as to its molasses origins which means no matter how great this rum is, it will not convert those that do not care for the taste of rum when sipped neat. Second caveat - the port-influence is strong so if you like rum but dislike port or port’s influence on distilled spirits, then this rum will not convert you either. Lastly, in my decades of food and beverage explorations, I’ve come to discover that the collective ‘we’ of humanity often experience a divergent set of impressions, opinions, and perspectives for any given object. It is not without precedent that a restaurant or recipe or libation that I adore receives the ‘friend-zoned’ treatment by being deemed merely ‘nice’ by the person I recommended it to. A great paradox in life is that in situations like these, both parties are simultaneously right and wrong; one person’s euphoria is another person’s ‘meh’. All this to say that yes, I adore this rum but that is no guarantee that someone else will (or even consider it ‘good’). My recommendation is to base your purchasing decision on your personal likes and dislikes, not what some rando spews out on the Internet.

A final thank you to Mount Gay. Advocates of rum have long felt that rum should be considered an equal to the revered spirits of Scotch, Cognac, and Bourbon. Releases like the Port Cask Expression provide compelling proof that rum easily deserves a place on the top shelf in the hierarchy of distilled spirits. In fact, the Port Cask Expression can, for some, invert the commonly perceived hierarchy and leave the old guard spirits aspiring to be considered an equal to rum. Until next time, cheers to all.

Singleton of Glendullan 19 Year

 

 

 

Singleton of Glendullan 19 Year (2021 Special Release)
Classification: Single Malt Scotch Whisky
Country: Scotland
Region: Speyside (Dufftown: 57.448N, -3.119W)
Mash Bill: 100% Malted Barley
Strength: 54.6% ABV (109.2° Proof)
Color: Unknown (most likely natural color)
Filtration: Unknown (most likely non-chill filtered)
Maturation: 19 years in ex-bourbon casks, finished for unknown duration in ex-Cognac casks
Price: $186.99 (Total Wine)

Tl;dr summary - An end-of-year splurge inspired by a generous age statement combined with an equally generous bottling strength. The dram starts out impressively with fantastic aromas of cognac, vanilla, almonds, and red apple. The taste requires a bit of dilution (and time) to tame the alcohol punch, but eventually fruits, oak, and pepper spice are revealed. The finish is moderate length with ample oak, pepper spice, and gentle fruit. An impressive whisky with polished packaging and a lofty asking price that could justifiably be a deal-breaker for some.

Well Happy New Year and Happy Burns Night everyone. Being the first post of a new year, I thought it perfectly fitting to open with a bit of pizzazz. Typically I am quite wary when it comes to spending a large sum of money on a single bottle of hooch. For any given distillery/producer, I usually hem and haw and sample cheaper offerings from them before plunking down the big bucks for something from the loftier end of their stable. Today's whisky totally bucks that behavior. When I purchased today's malt, not only had I never had a drop of a single malt from the Glendullan distillery, I knew very little about the distillery other than it was owned and operated by Diageo.

 

In my defense, three of the four motivations for my purchasing decision are laudable - this whisky is 19 years old, an official bottling from the distillery, and the cherry on top - bottled at cask strength. The final motivation is admittedly less noble and typically the purview of the gullible, but I'd be lying if I said the spiffy marketing campaign and glitzy artwork draped over the bottle and its packaging did not stir my desire to purchase. What can I say, I'm a sucker for a sea glass green bottle accentuated by a coral mermaid set against an azure blue sky.

 

All told, Diageo owns 28 malt distilleries in Scotland and this Singleton is one of eight 2021 Special Releases that Diageo produced from their stable of distilleries. All eight offerings are bottled at cask strength and all feature an age statement. The breathtaking entry has to be the senior Lagavulin, but each entry has its own charm. The seven other special releases joining the Singleton are: Cardhu 14 year ($150), Lagavulin 26 year ($2,400), Lagavulin 12 year ($150), Mortlach 13 year ($125), Oban 12 year ($115), Royal Lochnager 16 year ($250), and Talisker 8 year ($115).

I've always been intrigued by the numerous factors that contribute to a particular bottle's price point. There are tangible aspects such as age, bottling strength, and production characteristics, but there are also intangible influences such as brand perception and marketing push that contribute to a bottle's price. There is no tool quite like a spreadsheet to provide a bit of context in such regards and plotting each of the eight 2021 special releases does indeed show some interesting trends. It's no surprise that the 26-year-old Lagavulin is a wild point in terms of comparison. Malts from Islay that are over two decades old are indeed rare, doubly so from a distillery with the brand prestige of Lagavulin. There is simply no getting around the fact that a consumer will pay a significant premium to bring a bottle of long-aged Lagavulin home - low supply, high prestige, and even higher consumer desire will always yield a shockingly large asking price.

When we exclude the old man Lagavulin from the discussion, things become a bit more apples-to-apples:

 

Average MSRP (excluding Lagavulin 26): $154.29

Average $ per Year (excluding Lagavulin 26): $11.66

Average $ per ABV % (excluding Lagavulin 26): $2.73

 

In terms of dollars per year of maturation, it's the Royal Lochnager, Talisker, and 12-year Lagavulin that carry the largest premium. The Talisker and Lagavulin are understandable as both are well established and desired brands that have legions of fans across the globe. Any special release from those two distilleries will be snapped up without hesitation at virtually any price. The Royal Lochnager is interesting as I suspect it's premium is driven by scarcity and uniqueness. Royal Lochnager is by far Diageo's smallest distillery and is typically used in the Johnnie Walker Blue and Black products. As such there is very little Royal Lochnager whisky available to consumers as a standalone product and might explain why its pricing is significantly above the mean.

As for our humble Singleton, it is the best value in terms of dollars per year of age when compared to its special release companions. Being the second lowest bottling strength dings the value prospect when assessing it's bang-for-buck in regard to strength, but I'll take that trade-off for a 19-year-old single malt. Of course it is not a whisky's numerical attributes that shape its stature in the whisky world. For that we need to answer the question 'is this stuff any good?'. For a whisky's legend is made (or shattered) not on a website or retail shelf, but exclusively in the glass from which it is enjoyed.

 

Nose

Immediately reminiscent of Cognac: cocoa, coffee, oak, gentle leather jump out at first. With time, it's barley foundation emerges and it becomes obvious that this is indeed a malt and not a Cognac. Initially there is a fair amount of ethanol punch but once my nose acclimates, almonds, vanilla, gentle orange oil, and barley sugar all waft up from the glass. An absolutely sensational aroma throughout the experience. A+.

 

Taste

When sipped neat, the ethanol overwhelms my palate. This is a 'hot' whisky, a surge of alcohol coats my tongue and overwhelms my ability to pick out most flavors. There is a bit of acclimation where more flavors are perceptible when sipping neat, but for me, this whisky requires water. With water added, oak, apple, barley, dark cocoa, and a gentle black pepper spice are present. An excellent whisky in terms of flavor, but the taste is one notch below the sublime nose.

Finish

Medium to long finish. When sipped neat, the alcohol is the most dominant aspect of the finish, but just as with the taste, water helps the malt's flavors emerge. The oak, almond, black pepper and gentle orange continue from the taste. The black pepper is the longest to linger. The finish is on par with the taste, but does not surpass the taste (or nose) in the experience.

 

Overall

An excellent and enjoyable whisky. Thus far, I've had four pours of this malt and there is no question that for me, this whisky requires the addition of water for full enjoyment as it's just too ethanol-heavy when sipped neat. Of course this is not a complaint, I prize the fact that this malt is bottled at its natural cask strength as it gives the consumer total control over the dilution to their personal preference. For me a quarter-ounce of water for a 1.5 ounce pour was the consensus. This would bring the proof down from the original 54.6% ABV to ~47% ABV. Also praiseworthy, though not officially stated on the label, is my belief that this malt is natural color and has not been chill-filtered (the whisky did become cloudy after the addition of water). 

 

My criticisms are really nits - I wish the finish was a tad longer. I wish the taste and finish were equal to the aroma but both are a whisker below. I wish the price was lower. Speaking of price, perhaps the ultimate compliment I can give is that my enjoyment of this whisky dwarfed my whisky frugality and caused me to lose sight of the fact that I paid nearly $200 for this bottle. Unlike my experience with 21 year old Redbreast, the enjoyment derived from each sip of the Singleton dominated my thoughts rather than a fixation over how much each sip had cost me. Regardless, flirting with $200 is a significant sum of money and one that I feel must be kept at the forefront when discussing all other facets of this malt. 

 

So is this bottle worth the asking price? For me, yes, but only as a one-time purchase. While I do believe this malt is worth the price tag, I do not believe this malt to be unique enough to justify the purchase of a second bottle to squirrel away for future enjoyment. At a minimum I suspect 2022's Special Release of Singleton, assuming there will be one, will be equally enjoyable, even if its production characteristics are different than the 2021 release.

 

I'll leave you with a bit of a teaser - there are expensive bottles of hooch that merit purchasing in bulk. Bottles entirely unique in regard to production and/or quality such that they become time capsules capturing a specific moment never likely to be repeated. Such bottles are genuine treasures, distinct in their character; the phrase 'catching lightning in a bottle' comes to mind. I will be discussing just such a bottle in the very near future, but until then, cheers to all in the new year.

Tis the Season

Oh what a wonderful time of year it is. Yes, without a doubt, December is a magical month. Oh sure, there's the ho ho ho and mistletoe and goodwill towards all, but what I'm talking about is the beginning of citrus season here in good ole Florida. And with citrus season comes fresh grapefruit which is the gateway to an absolute deluge of delightful cocktails. 

 

A few years ago, I mused about one such cocktail, still a personal favorite, the Hemingway Daiquiri. To open this year's grapefruit season, we are heading into the realm of tiki and mixing up an absolute classic - Donn Beach's Navy Grog. First featured in 1941 at Donn's legendary Hollywood tiki bar Don the Beachcomber, Navy Grog has since become a staple in tiki culture. Thanks to the sensational investigative and archival work of Jeff 'Beachbum' Berry, we have a pretty good idea of Donn's original recipe and can enjoy at home. 

 

The drink's signature garnish, a cone of crushed ice with the drinking straw running through the middle, is omitted here as I do not have an easy way to produce such a garnish. Regardless, it's the rum that soothes the holiday commotion, so I would not sweat the crushed ice cone too much. As for the rums, the silver rum should be a good quality neutral rum. The Beachbum calls for a Cuban or Puerto Rican rum, but here I am using a sugarcane-based rum from Haiti. The drink's funk will come from both the Demerara and the Jamaican rums. Note in the photo below I am using an overproof Demerara rum, but I do proof the rum down to ~50% ABV before using in the cocktail. The honey syrup is easily made - equal parts water and honey heated and stirred in a saucepan until the honey is fully dissolved in the water.

Ingredients

• 3/4 ounce fresh lime juice
• 3/4 ounce fresh grapefruit juice
• 3/4 ounce sparkling water
• 1 ounce aged Demerara rum
• 1 ounce aged Jamaican rum
• 1 ounce unaged neutral rum
• 1 ounce honey syrup
  

Composition

Place all ingredients into a cocktail shaker, add ice, plop the top on and shake it like you mean it. Strain into a glass filled with fresh ice.

Mahalo everyone!

Sibling Rivalry Part Deux!

Appleton Estate Rum, 8-Year, 12-Year, and 15-Year Old
Classification: Jamaica Rum
Country: Jamaica
Region: Nassau Valley (St. Elizabeth: 18.166N, -77.728W)
Mash Bill: Fermented Molasses
Strength: 43% ABV (86° Proof)
Color: Unknown (most likely artificial color)
Filtration: Unknown
Maturation: 8 Years, 12 years, and 15 years respectively in ex-bourbon American oak
Price: 8-Year: $27.99, 12-Year: $34.99, 15-Year: $65.99

Tl;dr summary - Three rums, each one progressively older than its predecessor. Kudos to the folks at Appleton - the progression from youngest to oldest is very much in keeping with expectations. As the age increases, so too do the vanilla, oak, and roasty-toasty notes while simultaneously the fruit notes diminish. The 8-year is the most spirit-forward whereas the 15-year is the most oak-forward. It’s the 12-year that remains the sweet-spot to my tastes, a great balance between age and fruit.

Well, well, well, what have we here? Inspired by Thanksgiving Week Vacation Cocktail numero uno, I realized it was long overdue to spotlight rum on my little slice of the Interwebz. Despite being featured in numerous cocktail recipes here, rum has never starred on the big stage of an impressions writeup. In fact, this is the first impression entry featuring a spirit other than whiskey. Considering this milestone, let’s go for the gusto and make it a trio of rums, all hailing from the same distillery, Jamaica’s Appleton Estate.

The rum world is a fascinating place. Unlike major whiskey varieties like scotch, bourbon, or Irish whiskey, there is no uniform set of regulations governing the production of rum. While I will not attempt to iterate through the global spiderweb of rum regulations in this post, I will tell you that rum purchases generally require far more consumer due diligence to decipher and deduce what exactly is in that bottle of rum you are purchasing. There are two especially nefarious practices to be aware of in the rum world - misleading (or outright bogus) age statements and whether additives such as sugar or flavorings are added to the rum after distillation. Sadly, many rum producers are legally allowed to place misleading age statements as well as add additional sugar and/or flavorings to their rum without disclosing as such on their label. Thankfully Appleton Estate does the honorable thing here and does not covertly add any additional sugar or flavorings to their rums and the age statements found on their respective labels is the age of the youngest rum in the bottle.

As hinted in the King of Barbados entry, Jamaican rums are renowned for their ‘funk’ and while the ins and outs of ‘funk’ in rums is beyond the scope of this post, the executive summary is that funk in a Jamaican rum tends to be aromas (and tastes) of overripe fruits, particularly banana. Also know that funk in rums is not the exclusive purview of Jamaica, many rum producing nations across the globe produce ‘funky’ rums. Still, it is the rums from Jamaica that are most recognized as funky, perhaps due to the immense exposure they receive from their inclusion in many of the legendary cocktails emanating from tiki culture. One final funk note - while Appleton Estate certainly brings some funk, it must be stated that on the scale of funkadelic, Appleton is on the lighter side. Other Jamaican distilleries such as Hampden Estate or Worthy Park bring the Parliament-Funkadelic to the bottle and are definitely worth seeking out and sampling if Appleton floats your boat.

Appleton has offered a 12-year version for as long as I can remember and it has been a staple on our shelf since I first discovered it. The 12-year is on the very short list of rums that I recommend without hesitation to anyone that asks. It can be enjoyed neat, over ice, or as a mixer. Appleton 8-year is a ‘new’ item in their lineup, having been discontinued a number of years ago, but brought back in the summer of 2021. Along with the 8-year, the 15-year made its debut in Appleton’s lineup in 2021 and serves as a fitting layover point between the 12-year and their ultra-aged 21-year old offering.

All of Appleton Estate’s rum begins life as fermented molasses. To distill all that fermented molasses, Appleton employs both column stills as well as double-retort pot stills. While column stills are familiar to most whiskey enthusiasts as they are used the world over to produce a wide variety of distilled spirits, it's the double-retort pot still that brings a bit of razzmatazz to the party. Essentially an ingenious innovation stringing together multiple pot stills to allow simultaneous double and even triple distillation, double-retort pot stills were born from a desire to improve efficiency, but now serve as a vehicle to deliver a ester-rich ethanol prized by many Caribbean-based rum producers. If interested, a deeper dive into the anatomy and chemistry of the double-retort can be found here. Once distilled, Appleton uses ex-bourbon barrels (allegedly ex-Jack Daniel’s barrels) for the bulk of their aging duties with all aging occurring in the year-round heat of Jamaica. The journey to the bottle is completed when Appleton’s blenders select both column distilled and the double-retort pot distilled rums to be blended together and proofed to produce the final product. And speaking of final product, let's get to tasting three of them:

Appleton 8-Year

Nose: Molasses, brown sugar, gentle funk, orange zest, banana

Taste: Gentle alcohol bite, medium sweetness, fruit/banana sweetness, gentle chili and baking spice

Finish: Moderate ethanol, short length, gentle oak, brown sugar, banana, molasses

Overall: If one made a pie chart detailing the characteristics of this rum, the largest slice would be ethanol (youthful spirit), then brown sugar, then fruit. The Jamaica funk is not as pronounced as I’d like and I personally get more brown sugar notes in the taste but more molasses notes in the finish. An excellent mixing rum, but not a sipping rum for me.

Appleton 12-Year

Nose: Ripe Banana, funk, chocolate, orange, cinnamon, vanilla

Taste: Mild alcohol bite, medium-low sweetness (less sweet than the 8-year), orange, bitter orange, cinnamon, nutmeg

Finish: Medium-short in length, cinnamon and nutmeg, molasses, the slightest wisp of oak

Overall: The fruit and funk are several notches higher when compared to the 8-year. The molasses remains hidden until the finish where it just starts to peek through the blanket of fruit and spice. There is oak, but it is ever so gentle. A true jack of all trades, this rum is enjoyable neat or mixed.

Appleton 15-Year

Nose: A surprising punch of ethanol, more than the 12-year but less than the 8-year. Almost zero funk and very faint fruit. Roasted nuts, coffee, and oak char. Molasses is more pronounced on the nose than the 8-year and 12-year.

Taste: Vanilla syrup, molasses, oak char. Moderately sweet initially then progresses to a drying finish with light tannins

Finish: Oak, molasses, medium length. Given its lofty age statement, my expectation is for a much longer finish, but what is there is enjoyable

Overall: The oak is the most pronounced element of this rum, leading to a drying finish. Unlike the 8-year and 12-year, the molasses is most noticeable in the 15-year particularly in the finish. What is surprising and disappointing to me is the diminished amount of fruit and funk in this rum. While this is a sipping rum through and through, it certainly could be used in cocktails but that feels overly extravagant at this price-point. For my rum-purchasing dollars, the 15-year will be a one-and-done purchase as it does not rival the 12-year to my tastes. 

Final Verdict

The Appleton 8-year is an honorable entry in the lineup. Its current price, flirting with $30, while a notch high, is partially justified by a legitimate age-statement and a 3% bump in ABV over virtually all of its competitors. The rum certainly tastes youthful, more youthful than its stated 8-years, but this too can be interpreted as a positive as the rum mixes beautifully. There is no doubt this is a molasses based rum with a gentle Jamaican funk, it's a straightforward rum, so long as you do not have sipping aspirations for it. Things get a bit more interesting when it comes to the 12 and 15-year entries. 

I purchased the 15-year almost five months ago and since that day, I've debated labeling it as disappointing. Ultimately, I shall not do so as the connotation of that word is disproportionately harsh to the rum sitting in that bottle. While the 15-year is not a disappointing rum, it is an outmatched rum, specifically by its three year younger brother. Sampling these three rums simultaneously highlighted precisely what I desire from an Appleton rum - first and foremost I want fruit, then funk, then molasses, and lastly oak influence. Across the 7-year age difference between these three rums, as they get older, the spirit-influence decreases, the fruit-influence decreases, and the oak influence increases. Oddly, as far as the funk goes, it's strongest in the 12-year, then the 8-year, and weakest in the 15-year. Like the fruit influence, I would have expected the funk to diminish proportionally with age, but alas, that is not the case to my tastes. Perhaps the funk prevalence in the 12-year is an intentional artifact of the blender's intentions. I can only speculate on that, but ultimately, that is precisely why I adore the 12-year, it is a brilliant balance between fruit, funk, and age.

Stay funky my friends, until next time.

A hard day at the office...